thats easy too. not a whole lot involved.
the drivers side is the hard one to pop out. it needs a good quick snap/pryed out, and it comes right out.
theres a write up for that here too.
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thats easy too. not a whole lot involved.
the drivers side is the hard one to pop out. it needs a good quick snap/pryed out, and it comes right out.
theres a write up for that here too.
I'm going to read up on how to get it out didn't look like much today while I was in there. Just one big bolt that I'd have to impact off
i got mine off with a breaker bar. its not that bad. either put the spare tire on and take the bolt off, or slide a socket extension in the disk, and let it hit the caliper to keep from turning the bolt against the trans in park.
35mm nut, impact gun it
pop the ball joint, swing the knuckle over and push the CV out, pop out of trans, install new one and put it back together and boom done.
Though reading about it can help better than my simple explaining lol.
Well I'm going to go pick up the axle from Morads this week seeings he's right down the street. I'd rather go with an OEM only because everyone is saying the aftermarket axles are garbage and from what i've read the GM OEM ones are solid. The drivers side looks good but the pass. side is definately spitting grease i pulled another hand full out again yesterday. But since i've upgraded my garage to air tools and having an impact gun definately makes life that much easier on the knuckles and forearms lol. But also simple explaining is good beats around the bush and gets right to the point of how it's actually done. Only thing i worry about is ball joints those can be a pain from my previous experience but i didn't have impact tools when I did my last ball joints on my Trans am. I do remember driving down the freeway and having a lower ball joint fail in my old Crown Victoria and that was one of the scariest experiences i've ever had to deal with.
you dont really need to pop the ball joint, you can pull the 2 bolts off the strut and swing the knuckle like that, thats how i did it.
some will say you will need an alignment after, but it can only bolt back in one way. there's no adjustments.
unless you have camber bolts, then you will need an alignment. or mark where they were, before removing.
Here's the fun part no matter what I do suspension I got an alignment at NTB for 49.99 on pricematch/buddy working there and it comes with a 6 month warranty. So when i redo the tie rod ends and all of that and struts all around they have to align for free.. I know people say NTB is a rip off but when you can get aligned and then they try and up sale you which i'm in retail I know how it goes you say "no" i'm good DIY and then take it back and say i hit a bump
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