Thread: Camber after lowering?

I went to get an alignment the other day and they said my rear was sagging and I need new "struts" I'm assuming he means springs. Either way I might as well lower at this point. I was looking at Eibach lowering springs, what should my camber be after lowering my 2006? Can they align it to fix camber or do I need a kit? If I get a kit will they align it using the kit?

camber naturally increases the lower you go. they'll need to slot the struts or use camber bolts to go back towards the positive with the camber. you generally want to keep the stock alignment settings unless you are attempting to do something different, like fit overly large wheels/tires or running a more aggressive alignment for handling purposes.

and yes, the guy means springs. struts dont sag.

I do understand that camber will become more negative but is it enough to make the tires wear noticeably? And is there any adjustments on the oem to correct for some of the camber change?

-1.4 -1.8???

yes, you'll wear them badly without a proper alignment.

no, the OEM stuff does not have provisions for camber changes. therefore, camber bolts.

he is saying you should shoot for somewhere around -1.5* of camber, which i would agree with. it's better for handling and won't destroy tires because it's just simply not enough to matter.

After lowering, I couldn't get a proper alignment. My drivers front strut camber bolts couldn't touch it. GoodYear (the peeps that did my alignment) had to woller at out the hole and make it work. They also felt that this was an extra $40.00 service.

i actually like slotting the hole in the strut versus a camber bolt. less likely to slip and it will give you way more adjustment.

Wish somebody made CC plates for the wbody.

Yeah, like stated you will need to either A slot the struts or B buy eccentric camber bolts. I went with B when I had mine aligned.

Originally Posted by TexasTanker19kilo20

Wish somebody made CC plates for the wbody.

For what they are useful for, they wouldn't be worth having. They are only nice to change camber settings quickly. Otherwise slotting the struts and running as much caster as possible is usually more than enough.

I run -2.5* of camber in the rear and don't really burn my tires too bad on the inside, but it should be too bad until -3* of camber it becomes really noticable

Originally Posted by Bio248

For what they are useful for, they wouldn't be worth having. They are only nice to change camber settings quickly. Otherwise slotting the struts and running as much caster as possible is usually more than enough.

Well put, I will try to do this when I go to lower it. LOL my wife cut me off after the tint job. Will have to wait till later for anymore mods.

Originally Posted by Drunkie

I run -2.5* of camber in the rear and don't really burn my tires too bad on the inside, but it should be too bad until -3* of camber it becomes really noticable

Noticed the same. I ran -2.5* all around and didn't notice any funny wear in about 15k miles.

I'm running whatever the camber is after lowering with really no ill effects, I'm on Eibachs. If you look at the rear tire you can tell there's some camber there.

the rear is always going to have more camber based on the lowering. you really should reel that camber in and make sure the rest of the alignment is good to go as well. the thing that really destroys tires is too much tow.

Thank you, that's all I needed to hear. Thank u everyone. I will check the alignment after drop and see if I need to get it aligned.

I checked my own alignment with using tips from online, and my toe is 0 which i thought stock was toe out, but i dont mind 0 toe. but what was alarming was rear driver was -1.68 camber pass rear was -1.4 and fronts were -.84. I read somewhere stock springs are suppose to be 9" and my rear driver is 8.5"

Did you allow the drop to fully settle before you measured? Just curious.

Oh sorry that was before drop. I should be ordering the springs in the next 2 weeks

that actually sounds like dead on stock alignment.