03 GTP ABS/TCS--NOT SO SIMPLE--Seeking advanced advise

lol--spent several hrs crawling on cold a$$ concrete slab underneath mine this weekend, I need a few days before I get back to it, too.

Again, thanks to all who contributed! Really, I feel like I have a handle on what needs to be done, but without shared experience/knowledge I would still be swinging in the dark, more like pissing in the wind, or taking it up the rear from a mechanic (GM dealer charges $140/hr). All hubs have tested good.

I'm not a mechanic or electrician, but this is my take... Mainjet and Brandon are both right.

Mainjet, its awesome your systems are working again, but seems very unlikely that anything was "fixed". I'm not good person to tell others what they should do, but mainjet, I would consider holding onto any parts you have for few weeks, I mean I would not spend the $ to ship them back just yet.

I have not had benefit of having a working system to compare against, but I believe I have multiple failures/bad parts. From what I have read, observed, & deduced, I am planning on rebuilding EBCM with mastermodule and putting in new ignition.

Link to ignition issues has good info, but mine hasn't failed when I could test fuse, but it makes sense to me. I do have a mechanic in family, and describing some of the issues I have, first thing he said was, 'bad ground' then, 'ignition can cause that', this was all prior to my joining forum.

I believe they are related. Ignition sends power all over the place, & ABS & HVAC blower are on same fuse.

In my humble opinion, limited electrical experience, a bad circuit in one system could corrupt the other. I am refraining from leaving blowing and radio on at start-up, and stopped using seat heater until I get both igniton and EBCM fixed. I think if your ignition is bad, it can cook other electrical components, so I will likely do that first.

I will post progress when I can actually get some parts installed.

I find it funny that with this particular issue you will find that everybody finds a different thing that is causing it.

I did send back my ignition switch back a week ago because after more study I believed my issue was probably not that part. I still believe that what casued my problem was the EBCM.

It is possible that it's fixed because often times things gone wrong electrically because of a simple bad/corroded connection. I know that my problem was not intermittant it was constant. DIC always flashed zeros since it started flashing and once the ABS light went on it never went off. But now after replugging in the EBCM all is fixed at the same time.

I did buy the EBCM so that isn't going anywhere. I hang on to that just as you suggested.

If I were standing where you are I would do just what your doing. I would install the rebuilt EBCM first by itself and see what that solves. IF it fixes it, send back the ignition. If it doesn't, move on to the next step. But if you change everything at once you put to many variables into the mix.

Oh and by the way, I am obviously not a mechanic or electrician either. I am just a dad trying to keep his daughters car running along with all the other family cars. LOL. I don't go looking for troubles. Sometimes I hate to even crawl under the car because I am afraid of what I might see. IT I could get under there with my eyes closed, I would. ;-)

The holidays are over and I'm back at it. I've done quite a bit of homework and testing. Thanks again to the guys that replied to my post, big help on all accounts. Rocknnachos was right-on with the gpona.com gm service manual--probably the most complete and useful resource, but you MUST create a FREE account. I also got a subscription to alldatadiy.com, also very helpful, but for a price.

I did every test I could w/o a ABS capable scan tool. I gave myself a $300 limit, and went scan tool shopping, again. NO GO. From what I have found, no one makes an scan tool in that price range that will read 00'-03' GP ABS. If anyone knows of one, I'd appreciate it if you let me know make and model.

So I broke down and went back to a GM dealer. More stupid drama. First they said they would scan it for free, since their last diagnosis appeared off, then when I got there, they tried to charge me, until I found the guy that told me he would help me out. Then they kept it over night... Ridiculous.

So I asked them to skip the diagnosis I had paid for and just clear the code history and give me the current codes, C0244 and C0550. They said the EBCM has internal malfunction and need to be replaced--$1867. They had nothing to say when I asked why they didn't tell me that the first time I brought it in.

So now I am figuring out when is best time to go with out the DD and going to send it to Modulemaster as Brandon orig suggested.

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Originally Posted by Mr D

So now I am figuring out when is best time to go with out the DD and going to send it to Modulemaster as Brandon orig suggested.

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No way, bro. you can still drive without the ABS module on the car. Just cover the area up with tin foil or saran wrap and tape. Keep it water/dustproof and you're golden. It's what the rest of us did.

LOL, THANKS NA06! I probably would not have even tried. Thats the best news anyone has given me in weeks. LOL!

And to follow up w/ mainjet. I hope you're still good, brother. I learned two things that in my mind could result in a "repaired" EBCM by removing it and reinstalling it. 1st, DIC is grounded thru EBCM, and if 1 system fails, the PCM can disengage the other--so by reinstalling EBCM, a ground may have been fixed. 2nd, I believe the EBCM uses solenoid valves which, in my limited understanding, have a moving part, which may get stuck (and free up later). Also, I stopped using seat heater, sparingly use HVAC, and always turn off all assessories before turning off ignition, and I have not had any more issues with DIC.

lol did i call it or did i call it? :p

just cover it with saran wrap and aluminum foil just tape it down you'll be fine. ModuleMaster will get you fixed up, mine is still perfect to this day and that was in like June or July. they'll do ya right :)

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Originally Posted by Mr D

And to follow up w/ mainjet. I hope you're still good, brother. I learned two things that in my mind could result in a "repaired" EBCM by removing it and reinstalling it. 1st, DIC is grounded thru EBCM, and if 1 system fails, the PCM can disengage the other--so by reinstalling EBCM, a ground may have been fixed. 2nd, I believe the EBCM uses solenoid valves which, in my limited understanding, have a moving part, which may get stuck (and free up later). Also, I stopped using seat heater, sparingly use HVAC, and always turn off all assessories before turning off ignition, and I have not had any more issues with DIC.

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Yea, I am still good. all the problems I was having with the ABS/Traction control off DIC flashing zeros - is gone and has not come back. But remember, My EBCM was replaced by the dealer when the previous owner had it and that was close to $1800.00 for that job.

I am very interested to see how things work out when you replace yours. I am hoping for the best for you.

I haven't given up or forgotten about you guys. But I have all kinds of problems. A few weeks ago, I went out to car to remove EBCM to finally have it rebuilt, and battery was dead, not even enough juice to pop the trunk to get to my jumper cables. I figure, no big deal, I must have left my scan tool on over night--oh well, EBCM can wait another week. So I had AAA come and jump and test batt and alternator--everything tested fine, but I wanted to drive it for a while before messing with it anymore. Later that week, my wiper motor burned out, I could hear popping and smell electrical stink...SOB. So I drive for a week w/o wipers, and find a junk yard and plan my trip. Before I get to junk yard, one night I get home from work, go in for dinner, and after 3 hours, go to car to run errand, & F'N SEAT IS STILL HOT--F"N SEAT HEATER IS STILL ON. What a can of worms. Game changer.

Pulled the seat heater fuse, and this time its staying out until I get the rest of this mess fixed.
Put in new ignition, I was worried a bad/fused contact could be shorting out other systems--btw, took apart old one & it looked fine.....But i did find 3 wires p.o. had tapped, so I cut all that crap and am 1 step closer to stock.
Put in remanufactered wiper motor--not as simple as I would have imagined but back on the road. I noticed the driver side of the cowl did not have sealant--so my best guess/hope is, water behind fire wall, it had snowed alot, & I figure heater could have melted snow and water would run down...?

This weeekend, with just a little luck, I'll finally get EBCM out, and ship it out first of next week. The funny part is, I'm totally used to driving w/o abs/tcs.... BUT I CANT STAND THEM DAM ORANGE LIGHTS ON MY DASH. LOL

lol. my biggest pet peeve with the ebcm being broked was having to go without power assist (magnasteer). it'll surely spoil ya.

Funny thing is, my power steering works fine...... That's part of the reason I suspected wiring issue. Seems wierd (not impossible) that my EBCM has an internal error that turns off ABS and TCS, but power steering system is unaffected....