you can drive mine if you want to see if it handles any different than yours
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you can drive mine if you want to see if it handles any different than yours
You can make handle as about as good as 2 ton FWD car could handle.
Which is scary at the limits.
400# and 250# must be fun....
Hell on the struts though.
400# front 350# rear
Next up for suspension, I'm gonna do SFC rails...maybe cross bracing, once I fix the exhaust low hanging.
Was looking under the car today...
Its plausible.
But difficult because of the step between the pinch weld and the rail.
Also the rear rail is recessed.
Something of a similar design to the following would be ideal:
Probably going to get a quote from a local shop for something like that sometime this year.
I really hate hearing the sunroof creak when pulling in and out of the driveway.
Also.... Rear strut tower bar then triangulate it downwards?
Roll cage?![]()
Last edited by matt5112; 08-06-2011 at 10:00 PM.
Have it bolt to the sub frame somehow and then run it back and bolt to the rear trailing arm. Basically adding to what it is above. Then have it cris-cross over the exhaust. That would make a huge difference.
I hate how when you hit bumps it pulsates through the car, once I had SFCs in the maxima, it never did that again.
We need aluminum subframe bushings too.
Depends on the material.
Mild steel or 4340.
Dave... Instead of welding a bracket onto the Al subframe, have you thought about a tubular subframe?
nope, in all honesty, I haven't crossed this bridge yet. I want to get the engine part done first then finish the little bits and pieces
Fair enough.
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