Thread: New Struts??

I'm looking to buy new struts, my back ones are starting to wear out and i might as well replace them all anyway. I want the handling to be improved from stock but i wanna keep it somewhat comfortable so i can drive it every day nicely. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about putting OEM back on cause they seem to do a pretty good job. But if anyone knows something i dont let me know! thanks!! Also what about springs? should i replace them too? im a suspension noob =pp

Like Chrome said the GR2s are a good stock replacement. Put 4 on the 05 GT this spring. Lower cost than AC Delcos too. But if the AGXs were available for my 05 GT, I would have gone with the AGX for their adjustable damping since I would have like them tighter than the GR2s. Brandon, the rears were the complete assemblies only because there is a history of the rear springs breaking. My 99 Olds Alero broke rear springs at 80K miles but the 98 GP didn't with 140K miles. Assemblies weren't available for the 05 fronts not that I wanted them as they are extra cost but do save the work of compressing the springs and figuring out all the parts to order. The KYB assemblies are stock ride height.

Brandon, with 158K miles, new springs in complete assemblies makes a lot of sense and saves work and time. Just a bunch of wrench work is needed. The 3 nuts at the top of each, the 2 big bolts at the bottom (need a mini sledge or big ball peen to knock them out). You may be lucky and the stabilizer bar is attached to the lower control arm so you won't have to mess with it. You might want to consider ordering camber adjusting bolts at the same time. I didn't but the camber front and back was even side to side and the tires are wearing great.

The stabilizer bar hookup is just a couple more nuts and bolts. The headache is that they may be tricky to disconnect from the strut on the car. I had to disconnect one of mine at the attachment with the stabilizer bar then work on it with the strut on a bench. The camber bolts replaces one of the 2 lower bolts on the strut (the upper one). I lucked out and my side to side camber was even on the fronts and backs. They were more negative (tire tips in at the top) than spec but even side to side. Oh, you do need to get an alignment after the struts get installed. Make sure they give you a print out of the starting and finishing alignment. Camber and caster is not adjustable on these cars from the factory. Camber is adjustable with the camber bolts installed. You need one for each strut. The alignment shop might offer to slot the upper of the 2 holes in each strut so they can adjust the camber but the labor is way too expensive (they qouted me $400). Camber bolts are about $25-$30 a pair. I lucked out and didn't need either. Otherwise I would have to install the camber bolts and pay for another alignment.

Good question - When you take apart the suspension/struts, etc. especially if you change parts, the alignment will change. The parts don't fit back together the same way. The basic aspects of an alignment are toe, camber and caster. Toe is adjustable as they have threaded rods to adjust. Camber and caster are not adjustable from the factory. If any of these are too far out of wack, the car won't track straight, could wander, tires will wear fast/crazy and handling could suffer. You might luck out like me and only end up needing the toe dialed in. If your tire wear is great (like no problems with 50K miles on a set of tires), then I might chance not bothering with the camber bolts. The only thing you risk is having to pay for another alignment.

The camber cannot be adjusted with the factory bolts. The alignment machine will read where the camber is but any adjustment cannot be made without the camber bolts. I would say, go with the factory bolts and see where you land with the alignment. Again make sure they give you a printout of the before and after alignment. Let us know how you make out.

Printout is post struts and pre + post alignment. The shop will tell you if you are out of spec but my shop tried to sell me $400 of labor to slot the bolt holes. And no, being out of spec doesn't mean you have to have something done. My camber is -0.7 degs on the fronts and -1.5 degs on the rears. Spec is like -0.2 degs. The new Michelins Primacy MXV4s I put on are wearing beautifully. That is why with the alignment printouts, you can get advice here on any next steps.

no i dont mind clutter thats ok. Thanks you guys