Thread: Suspension overhaul checklist

Originally Posted by NoBoost91

I have gr2's with vogtland springs the cars rides pretty good , I would also get anti pogo washers , you don't want to be boucning over bumps

How long have you had your set up? Did you ever try it without the anti-pogos?

Originally Posted by Silver GTP

You are correct about the spring insulators. The front has them top and bottom, but the rear only has bottom ones. If you don't want to pull your old strut assemblies apart to use the old ones, you will need front and rear spring insulators, dust boots and bump stops.

Yes, the goal is to basically have the new parts completely assembled so as to drop out the old set up, and directly bolt the new one in. Anyone by chance have a number on the bump stops and dust boots? I'll look them up on Rock Auto, but I'm always paranoid about ordering the wrong parts with the dizzying cluster of results that come up when looking for these kinds of parts. This is what I have for the insulators:

KYB Part # SM5467
Upper Spring Seat Insulator; Front Upper


KYB Part # SM5437
Lower Spring Seat Insulator; Front Lower
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days


KYB Part # SM5440
Lower Spring Seat Insulator; Rear Lower
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days


KYB Part # SM5470
Springseat w/ Insulator; Front
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

BTW, that's what I mean with confusion with part numbers. Why is there a 2nd number for front insulators at the end of that list (SM5470), and why does it not specify upper or lower?

Originally Posted by NoBoost91

I agree with Matt about the MOOG sway bar end links for the front and rear, but you might want to add the MOOG sway bar bushings for the front since they are polyurethane and will help to firm things up.

I take it they will clear the "fatter" GMPP bars? Does anyone have a part # on those by chance?

Originally Posted by NoBoost91

Check out the condition of your front control arm bushings before you pull it all apart. If you are doing everything else, it is a good time to replace the control arms. I noticed a better feel from the front when I replaced mine. The old bushings were worn out and sloppy.

I noted in the OP that I had changed the control arms a while back with really low mileage ones from Ed Morad, and they definitely looked really low mileage. My ball joints were shot at the time, so rather than dealing with trying to remove them, I just ordered the complete control arms from Ed.