LOl it was so late. 6 am. Not 14" but 14mm
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11-12-2010
LOl it was so late. 6 am. Not 14" but 14mm
11-12-2010
So, im back home. and disappointed nobody here could do re-tap for me. I will be using sleeves.
Last edited by d8teen; 11-12-2010 at 04:05 PM.
11-13-2010
Nothing wrong with sleeves...I use them.
04-10-2011
Have you looked at your car.....why would you not do it properly lolOriginally Posted by Ridin ON Chrome
The only reason anyones bracket bolts losened after a couplebrakes is because they never tightened them properly t begin with.
I order drilled and slotted rotors, just got my brackets back from the machine shop so ill be doing my brakes next weekend
04-10-2011
Recently people have started listening to the solid rotor school.
04-10-2011
Whys that?Recently people have started listening to the solid rotor school.
04-10-2011
Drilled rotors crack.
04-11-2011
Don't mean to thread jack but what do we typically do to firm up the pedal after the fbody swap. I've heard it feels kinda spongey. Different master cylinder? Bigger brake lines?
04-12-2011
Buy C5 or LS2 C6 calipers instead.
Bigger wont solve your problem.
You'll want a 00-05 impala brake booster and stainless lines.
Though there were reports here and there of stainless lines breaking. Unsure how that ended.
04-12-2011
Matt...is that only on Canadian metal? I jumped on the wagon for drilled slotted just because I could try them out. Crappy rotors will crack, Baer and R1 Concepts (should be Centric blanks) havent' thought about cracking or anything. I'm constantly showing people how great they stop.
Bumping a 5 month old thread FTW!
04-12-2011
centric premiums are cheaper and perform just as well.
Unless the veins are curved there is no point in opting for those rotors.
Its more in the pad/rotorsize/caliper/suspension that determines your braking performance.
Even moreso is your tire choice.
04-12-2011
I understand all that. Moreso addressing your general statement about drilled cracking. They don't all crack, they aren't all crap and I've had cracks in solid face rotors plenty of times.
The reality is.. crappy rotors are crappy.
04-12-2011
Agreed
04-12-2011
China made rotors are more prone to failure more than anything else.
But I will testify to the death that Drilled rotors are not the way to go.
04-12-2011
no one needs drilled and slotted rotors on the street. if you do, because youre fading them all the time, youre driving like an asshole and need to knock it off.
04-12-2011
Im not buying drilled and slotted rotors for their purpose im buying them for looks
04-12-2011
No need to.. honestly take it from a guy that has them. It doesn't impress you much after a couple of weeks. Save that dinero, but... if I may suggest the R1's. They start off as centric blanks then they coat them.
I've had them on my all season DD for a year. Not a bit of rust in the fins or on them at all. I am impressed.
04-12-2011
I've been running the R1 rotors for almost a year too and very happy with them!
04-12-2011
centrics come coated?
04-12-2011
Possibly. I've heard R1 coats them. Maybe it's a second coating, maybe it's the first coating on the Centric. Honesly ...I dunno enough about it. I gave something a try and am here to report that all drilled rotors don't crack and R1 eline rotors haven't rusted on me, in a horrible winter of driving.
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