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arnt to bad as in, it isnt noticeable unless you are looking for it? because honestly...im not making a show car that judges are going to be looking at to see if everything is on the up and up...id be fine with them if this is true
thanks for the link btw, i found it right after i posted asking about it
So if I bought the DNA lowering springs, What all should I need? anti-pogo washers and strut mounts?
May as well get some new strut mounts. It would also be a good idea to get some offset dogbone mounts or cradle spacers to set the suspension's geometry back into place.
i wouldnt even waste your time on those springs, you want to go lower than that.
I modified my LCA's and removed the old rubber, and was able to buy new rubber through GM and press them in after the arms were powder coated. I found the part numbers in a Mitchel's book, and took it to GM, and they were amazed the numbers worked, since THEY cant even get new rubber, as their books/service is to replace the entire LCA as a whole.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkieTheBear
I have a lot of miles on them, and they are still holding up JUST fine. But I agree, the problem is the front bushing, its a joke if your car has slicks, and your able to really hook at the track hard.
The modification that was done, was basically welding in a ball end. Such as this:
http://www.johnnyproducts.com/images...Ball%20end.JPG
in place of the front round rubber bushing.
Same ball end I have on each end of the lift arms of my tractor for my 3 point set up.
As long as you get the right size ball end...its a matter of pressing/hammering out the old rubber one, and installing the new, and having it welded in from both sides. It will cause some loose "knocking" in your suspension as it has play the stock rubber bushing would not give you. You gain some, and you loose some with this modification.
When I modified my arms...I did not install this ball end.
~F~
make them. become rich.
IIRC dave has ron vogal LCA's right now.
I lowered my car on eibach and i have no vibration at all, all i did is the shorter dog bones,
is it normal?
that's all i had to do as well.
I have shorter dog bones and still have some vibration, was wondering if i should also buy spacers
and do i go with vinnies or zzperformance
ZZ Performance
buy them from vinnie. support the original creator.
also, youre gonna want to take the shorter dogbones out once you use the spacers.
My wife has a stock 2001 grand am that handles way better than my CompG. I was hoping for a cheap (like $200) fix for it but looks like I would have to go for new struts if I'm gonna fix it right. Kinda disappointing 'cause I can't afford it right now.
Does anybody make a strut that will fit the front of the 04+ that can stand up to being lowered, besides the GXP strut ($280 a peice)? I haven't been able to find one, just the rears. Do the bilstiens ride like crap if they are lowered? I'm assuming HT coilovers are just gonna be my only option if I can't find cheaper struts.
So does anybody have an explanation why the 2005 CompG handles like a supercharged dog turd in the first place? It always has, since I bought it, although age has made it a little worse.
65/35 weight distribution, soft suspension.
comp g struts cope well with lowering
you can get bilstein hd's for less than 280 /ea.
kyb agx's also fair well with lowered cars.
Ok so the other day I was with my friend at this performance shop and the guy who worked there was telling me that coilover kits were pretty much universal and the only car specific part i need is the actual shock. I showed him the HT motorsports coilovers and he had no idea why they were so expensive and he told me he could put some together for me easily. He said that what he would give me weren't "full coilovers" but simply a conversion kit slid overtop the shock. he didnt mention removing the perch thing that ive heard needs to be grinded off. my question is, does this guy know what he's talking about and could it really be this simple? seems too good to be true. he estimated it to be about 800 dollars for the kit and shocks. im assuming hes talking gr-2 because he said kyb and 115 a piece for them
you want to use AGX's.
and the strut mount will take some care in ensuring you still have plenty of strut travel.
you CAN do this for cheap if you can fab.
I've done a bunch of reading on the DIY ones, but what I was wondering though is why did the guy make it seem so simple? whether theyre gr-2 or axg, he didnt mention anything needing any fab work (which i cant do myself). And Im kinda wondering what their shop would have done if i had given them my car and had them start on it, im guessing they would have run into some problems and had to fab everything themselves?
look up ground control coilover sleeves. then you'll realize what he is talking about.
yes, held coilovers are just like this.
I have a breakdown on pricing for held
Your paying for the strut top mounts cause they are nicely done. I have seen some hack jobs that I would never put on my car
i just bought some eibachs the other day, and the guy (Swiggles) threw in some shorter dog bones for free. thats great, but i was planning on doing motor mount spacers because it is the "right" way to do it. my question is, should i do spacers or the dog bones? i want a healthy and reliable setup when the time comes.
Spacers are so cheap really, but its personal preference. I've heard people have issues with the shorter dogbones and I personally don't like the idea of rocking or pulling a motor foward in an unnatural position.Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaMan61