F body upgrade problems. Help needed.

[brokeazfunk]

So I did the F body upgrade and everything went together just fine. I have no leaks and everything is put together correctly. calipers, rotors, pads, clips, crush washers. I used the F body bolts with the sleeves also.

The problem is that I have spent about 2 hours the first night and another 2 hours the second night bleeding the break lines (i know it shouldn't take that long) I used the 2 people and a clear hose and mason jar method and no more air bubbles, but the break is still a sponge! goes to the floor easy every time. They will stop the car pulling out of the driveway and moving slow but I don't want to take it out into traffic because it just doesn't feel right at all.

If I pump the break it stiffens up a little but after a few seconds its all spongy again. The OEM breaks worked fine and felt good and stiff.

This is my first time doing anything more then pads or rotors when it comes to breaks.

What am I missing here? Besides experience lol.

[BrandonHall10]

Let's start simple...

Did you put the bleeder on top, or bottom?

[brokeazfunk]

lol... I feel stoopid now. Air bubbles rise right? So I will swap them when I get home tonight.

[brokeazfunk]

Let's start simple...

Did you put the bleeder on top, or bottom?

So they are supposed to be on top correct? Just to be 100% sure

[BrandonHall10]

lol... I feel stoopid now. Air bubbles rise right? So I will swap them when I get home tonight.

You don't need to do that. Just bleed them off the bracket.

Remove the caliper and position it so the bleeder is on top. Clamp the pistons down so they don't blow out (I used a c-clamp and a scrap of wood), and bleed normally.

So they are supposed to be on top correct? Just to be 100% sure

Yeah, It's "unconventional" having the bleeder on bottom, but it works. Plus, it keeps from stretching your lines as far.

[brokeazfunk]

You don't need to do that. Just bleed them off the bracket.

Remove the caliper and position it so the bleeder is on top. Clamp the pistons down so they don't blow out (I used a c-clamp and a scrap of wood), and bleed normally.

It's "unconventional" having the bleeder on bottom, but it works. Plus, it keeps from stretching your lines as far.

I didn't mean to put them upside down but I think subconsciously I put them that way because of the lines. The rear is bled pretty good. I didn't change anything on the rear but thought I should just go through the motions and start in the back passenger side and hop scotch forward like you are supposed to do.

Ill give this a try tonight and let you know how it worked out. Thanks man.

[Scottydoggs]

id just swap em around so when people see em they dont know you f ed up lol

and if your gonna unbolt them to bleed them stick a 2x4 or something between the pistons and caliper to take the place of the rotor and pads, or you'll blow a piston out.

[brokeazfunk]

id just swap em around so when people see em they dont know you f ed up lol

and if your gonna unbolt them to bleed them stick a 2x4 or something between the pistons and caliper to take the place of the rotor and pads, or you'll blow a piston out.

Good point man lol. I think I will go with swapping them so I dont look like a dip sh!t down the road. Id rather just do it right as long as the lines will reach without putting too much tension on them.

[BrandonHall10]

When was the last time anybody looked at your bleeder screw position? Last set I did, I put it on bottom specifically for the purpose of giving the lines extra slack.

Who cares what other people think about you? Either way, do what you're comfortable with.

[CrazyGuy03]

Yeah and because they are from a F body , the location of the caliper is flipped 180*
so the left will be the right on a gtp or regal and so on

[brokeazfunk]

Well, I didnt have a way (that I trusted) to keep the pistons from blowing out, so I just swapped them around. Bleeding took about 10 minutes once I got them swapped and bleeders on top.

Breaks work great and feel good now. Thanks a LOT guys.