Thread: Gonna upgrade my subwoofer setup

nice job, let me know how it goes. just dont like em, felt like there trying to jew me at all points.

Originally Posted by Jteske88

nice job, let me know how it goes. just dont like em, felt like there trying to jew me at all points.

That's the point of a sales job. Luckily I pointed out the pricing is cheaper online and he worked with me. If the box is more than 110 i'll just go to Audio Tech across the street

Make sure your battery and alternator can handle the extra load. Mine with just two 12's amplified at 400rms, is making my lights dim when they hit hard.

Originally Posted by Oxfire

Make sure your battery and alternator can handle the extra load. Mine with just two 12's amplified at 400rms, is making my lights dim when they hit hard.

Thats what a capacitor is for.

Capacitor will not help, after the first hard hit from the sub its depleted then your battery is being relied on for the extra demand of the sub, once your battery is drained your hooped. Best bet is to upgrade the Big 3 wires and a stronger alternator instead of a capacitor.

i have about 2k in my car and get maybe a volt drop on my setup, but then againi have big three done in 2/0 gauge wire and run of 2/0 to the back also. only thing he needs to do is upgrade is current power wire and grounds. with the amp he has there wont be an extreme draw

Originally Posted by tod1d

Capacitor will not help, after the first hard hit from the sub its depleted then your battery is being relied on for the extra demand of the sub, once your battery is drained your hooped. Best bet is to upgrade the Big 3 wires and a stronger alternator instead of a capacitor.

That's what I'm looking to get done. Need to sell a whole bunch of mods first to acquire some capital though.

I'm satisfied with my 4gauge lol. it fits through the fender

yeah? just remember, smaller the wire the more draw, more draw equals more heat, more heat equals problems for you. And we know your not good with problems lol

Originally Posted by Jteske88

yeah? just remember, smaller the wire the more draw, more draw equals more heat, more heat equals problems for you. And we know your not good with problems lol

lol well i should be fine

hope so too lol, like i said any help im here.

thanks, hopefully it'll all be just plug n play again. I just gotta make sure I wire the subs up correctly, I blew a voice coil in a p3 last time I tried. I had a horrible diagram of figuring out how to wire it up lol.

rockford had wiring diagrams, and the type r's are pretty straight forward

yeah somehow i blew a voice coil on it. my first type r i ended up wiring it wrong and blew the sub lol.

i have a similar setup. I am running 2 12" Alpine type-x subs. I am using 2 alpine PDX 1.1000 amplifires. I love these amps! they are spendy but worth it.

Originally Posted by Jteske88

600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms), 500 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

this dont make scense to me, but if the 2 ohm rating is 1k, it would be a good match for those subs. keeping it safe that is

I believe that Alpine amps are not 1 ohm stable

I'll have to check and make sure they are 1ohm stable. I definitely don't want 2 Type X's lol.
Went to check on a box yesterday and the one i liked was $180, screw that. I'm not paying that much for a colored box lol


http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brutu...s=hifonics+amp

just remembered what Jteske88 was saying, wire up each sub to be 1ohm then wire together to make it 2ohm. So wouldnt matter if an amp was 1ohm stable or not. (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms), is what I need. Sadly the Brutus at 2ohm is 900

as long as your final load hits 2 your good to go just wire em like i told ya