Thread: Hippo's Audio Build Help

This thread went from good info (for like 15 pages cause hippo didn't listen) to Hippo goofing off.

Sick and tired of seeing it in my "new posts" with nothing happening. I'm putting us out of our misery on this post. Hippo, when you buy and install stuff. Please start a new thread.

I'm gonna go with the setup i have in the first post and get this sub in the future (a while):

Which would you recommend?

Kenwood KFC-W112SKenwood KFC-W112S (KFCW112S) 12" KFC Car Subwoofer

Pioneer TS-W309D4
Pioneer TS-W309D4 (TSW309D4) 12" Dual 4 Ohm Champion Subwoofer

or any other you suggest

No. I think you are going to be extremely disappointed when you hook up your fronts, test them out, and the hook up the rears. Because it pretty much won't change ****. Waste of money.
Even if you were loaded, why waste it?

Idk, I just like the idea of morels all around. I would really like SOMETHING new for 6x9's, could you please help me choose a cheaper pair that would work perfect with the amp??

And no I'm not loaded so it is really helpful haha thanks

I'd like to make this real simple. Speakers are made specific to a frequency/wavelength they're trying to reproduce. A sub wavelength can be as long as 32 feet while a mid-range frequency could be as long as 2 feet long. I won't get into specifics because nobody cares. Bottom line, a 6x9 does NOT produce the frequencies/wavelengths that a 8" dedicated sub is designed to play. Therefore, if a 6x9 doesn't play sub frequencies...how can you honestly tell people "it adds a little bass". That's only because it has similar cone area to an 8" sub. BUT that doesn't mean it is playing sub frequencies. It just means that mid-bass is playing lower.

Again, 6x9 will never equate to 8" sub. 8" mid-range will never be the same as an 8" "sub-woofer". Words have meaning. Stick to them. The quicker people start to realize that words are specific and not generalized these conversations will be much more concise.

I pointed out an open air sub AND a sub that required a box. 6x9's in the rear are no good unless you're doing something fancy that I don't want to talk about

Hope this helps!!

Ok I get it now thank you. Now, how extensive are the modifications to make those speakers fit?

Are there any other "open-air" subs you recommend? I can't find any of those ones previously recomended. THanks!!!!!!!

Stock audio is pretty dandy, you know.

hell no. If I put my eq to do like any bass at all it sounds like ass. And I like my music.


That HU is damn expensive though I800 you see they changed from the X995 to X996? Its $50 more..... is A2DP bluetooth worth it? Any HU's similar? I like the HU though so I will prolly end up going with it.

It's supposed to sound like ass. Deal with it as it is or go buy a boombox and strap it to your head.


And if $50 makes or breaks your budget you have NO business doing car audio.

okai! not..

Ah!!!

Can someone give me the pro and cons of putting 8's where the 6x9's go vs. 8's or 10's in a small box in trunk with some cheapish 6x9's?

Pros of open air: Space conservative, saves weight
Cons: in a box, you have a lot more options for style and sound. since you're not going to be doing "big" bass, i'd stick with the open air setup in the rear deck rather than putting them in a box.

Unless you want "SPL" as high as possible I don't see a downside to open air. What's nice about boxes is that you can design them so that the speaker output has certain characteristics...but really, how many people in this forum know enough about building boxes that they're going to "tune" them for specific locations and purpose? The couple of people we have...we're lucky to have.

So downsides to open air?...lower output. Lower power handling. Biggest problem: the rear deck IS your actual baffle. Therefore, EVERYTHING RATTLES!!! Every car has it's own characteristics. The vibrations eventually resonate to the rest of the vehicle causing the trunk and panels to vibrate as well. Another problem is that if you do infinite baffle then you want to do your best to keep the area from behind the speaker to leak into the listening area. That means, seal up the trunk from the rest of the vehicle; if possible.

Anyways, doing things right always means a laundry list of check marks but the truth is most people do everything wrong. So my opinion? Throw something in based on reasonable ideas and see what happens.

Get some nice 5-1/4's in the front. 8" subs in the back. Low pass the subs high, maybe 125hz or 200hz w/24 decibel slope and play them in stereo...specifically L and R. High pass the front speakers around 160hz or 125hz with 12 decibel slope and you're done. If you can, seal up your doors so only the speakers are open to the cabin. Also, use plastic cutting boards from wally world for your speaker adapters in the front.

Or do what I'm doing and put 4 12"s in a 6th order bandpass firing through the rear passthrough directly into the cabin...

JK, don't copy me.

Originally Posted by GiAnT4LYFE

I would def go with 2 SA 8's or DC Level 2 8's. Get a nice AQ 750 to push them. Run a decent set of components up front, Crescendo Audio has a decent set for a great price. Find a nice used 2 channel amp for the highs. If you do it right, you can have a really nice setup for ~$700. Check out DIYMA.

fixed? D: