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I'm gonna go with the setup i have in the first post and get this sub in the future (a while):
Which would you recommend?
Kenwood KFC-W112SKenwood KFC-W112S (KFCW112S) 12" KFC Car Subwoofer
Pioneer TS-W309D4
Pioneer TS-W309D4 (TSW309D4) 12" Dual 4 Ohm Champion Subwoofer
or any other you suggest
No. I think you are going to be extremely disappointed when you hook up your fronts, test them out, and the hook up the rears. Because it pretty much won't change ****. Waste of money.
Even if you were loaded, why waste it?
Idk, I just like the idea of morels all around. I would really like SOMETHING new for 6x9's, could you please help me choose a cheaper pair that would work perfect with the amp??
And no I'm not loaded so it is really helpful haha thanks
I'd like to make this real simple. Speakers are made specific to a frequency/wavelength they're trying to reproduce. A sub wavelength can be as long as 32 feet while a mid-range frequency could be as long as 2 feet long. I won't get into specifics because nobody cares. Bottom line, a 6x9 does NOT produce the frequencies/wavelengths that a 8" dedicated sub is designed to play. Therefore, if a 6x9 doesn't play sub frequencies...how can you honestly tell people "it adds a little bass". That's only because it has similar cone area to an 8" sub. BUT that doesn't mean it is playing sub frequencies. It just means that mid-bass is playing lower.
Again, 6x9 will never equate to 8" sub. 8" mid-range will never be the same as an 8" "sub-woofer". Words have meaning. Stick to them. The quicker people start to realize that words are specific and not generalized these conversations will be much more concise.
I pointed out an open air sub AND a sub that required a box. 6x9's in the rear are no good unless you're doing something fancy that I don't want to talk about
Hope this helps!! :)
Ok I get it now thank you. Now, how extensive are the modifications to make those speakers fit?
Are there any other "open-air" subs you recommend? I can't find any of those ones previously recomended. THanks!!!!!!!
Stock audio is pretty dandy, you know.
hell no. If I put my eq to do like any bass at all it sounds like ass. And I like my music.
That HU is damn expensive though I800 you see they changed from the X995 to X996? Its $50 more..... is A2DP bluetooth worth it? Any HU's similar? I like the HU though so I will prolly end up going with it.
It's supposed to sound like ass. Deal with it as it is or go buy a boombox and strap it to your head.
And if $50 makes or breaks your budget you have NO business doing car audio.
okai! not..
you might be happier with the performance from a sub (or subs) in a box in the trunk. The box wouldnt have to be very big for 2 8's or 2 10's.
Ah!!!
Can someone give me the pro and cons of putting 8's where the 6x9's go vs. 8's or 10's in a small box in trunk with some cheapish 6x9's?
i800collect knows alot about this stuff. he can correct me if i say something false lol.pros for in trunk: easier to get more output from subs, way more choices, you can move the box around if it doesnt sound quite right. obvious con is less trunk space and some added rear weight. pros for free air is cons for the box setup. you dont have to make or buy a box. cons: less to choose from, less output than a boxed sub, hard to tune to a certain frequency.
Pros of open air: Space conservative, saves weight
Cons: in a box, you have a lot more options for style and sound. since you're not going to be doing "big" bass, i'd stick with the open air setup in the rear deck rather than putting them in a box.
Unless you want "SPL" as high as possible I don't see a downside to open air. What's nice about boxes is that you can design them so that the speaker output has certain characteristics...but really, how many people in this forum know enough about building boxes that they're going to "tune" them for specific locations and purpose? The couple of people we have...we're lucky to have.
So downsides to open air?...lower output. Lower power handling. Biggest problem: the rear deck IS your actual baffle. Therefore, EVERYTHING RATTLES!!! Every car has it's own characteristics. The vibrations eventually resonate to the rest of the vehicle causing the trunk and panels to vibrate as well. Another problem is that if you do infinite baffle then you want to do your best to keep the area from behind the speaker to leak into the listening area. That means, seal up the trunk from the rest of the vehicle; if possible.
Anyways, doing things right always means a laundry list of check marks but the truth is most people do everything wrong. So my opinion? Throw something in based on reasonable ideas and see what happens.
Get some nice 5-1/4's in the front. 8" subs in the back. Low pass the subs high, maybe 125hz or 200hz w/24 decibel slope and play them in stereo...specifically L and R. High pass the front speakers around 160hz or 125hz with 12 decibel slope and you're done. If you can, seal up your doors so only the speakers are open to the cabin. Also, use plastic cutting boards from wally world for your speaker adapters in the front.
Or do what I'm doing and put 4 12"s in a 6th order bandpass firing through the rear passthrough directly into the cabin...
JK, don't copy me.
I would def go with 2 SA 8's or DC Level 2 8's. Get a nice AQ 750 to push them. Run a decent set of components up front, Crescendo Audio has a decent set for a great price. Find a nice used 2 channel amp for the highs. If you do it right, you can have a really nice setup for ~$700. Check out stevemeadedesigns.com.
FWIW i ditched my rear 6x9's for 6.5 components. One is blown right now. I dunno what i'll replace it with. Also one channel of my 4chan amp is blown as well so it works out. That's some good deals on those morel's. I might have to purchase those myself.
Also for a Sub what about Sundown Audio, or if you want to go cheap get a Kicker sub. They sound pretty good for the price. I've never been disappointed.
Use something like this on your front speakers. To seal the speakers off to the cabin.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-81-4300.html
take one of these
IVX-10 Sub Woofer
and put it in either sealed/ported enclosure. both will sound good. It will add some decent bass for cheap. Its a really good price for that woofer. You should be able to find abundance of amps to do 300w rms for cheap as well. I think you will be happier with the result than messing with free air subs. Much easier to do also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiAnT4LYFE
FIXED!!! Lmao