Thread: Yet another big 3 question

I've searched and read, but I'm still confused on whats right from wrong.

I used all 1/0 welding cable. 2001 GT

1. ran a piece from + of batt. to stud on fuse box, then from stud to alt post.

2. ran a piece from - of batt to chassis (under fuse box/pass. fender)

3. ran a piece from - of batt to engine ground ( on driver side of the block, under the manifold)

4. Is this all correct or should I run a piece right from the + of the batt to the alt? If so, does it need to be fused?

5. Now with grounding, do I need to add a block to chassis piece, or is my block to - of batt. okay? I've read so many different ways I'm lost as to whats right from wrong.

AND

6. It that even the right engine ground (the driver side one under the manifold)?

7. There is also one under the coil pack bracket and one on the driver side bolted to the core support.

I know this may be confusing but I just want to get it straight!

The overall purpose is to achieve more current and voltage flow.

I left stock wiring in a 1999 blazer a few years back and had dimming and voltage drops like crazy running smaller amps then I have now. I added to the wiring in that and it fixed the problem.

I've read it does and doesn't help, but in my experience is has helped. I plan to upgrade my alt and batt, as well as another batt in the truck. I'm running a AQ2200D thats 2200 RMS and a mb quart 4 channel thats rated at 125RMS x4 @4 ohm.

I never ran this setup I have without the big 3, so I don't have a comparison, but I believe what you're saying.

and you're NOT being asshole, I see your point. I just have the wiring laying around so I figured why not.

Alright I think I'm going to remove the 2 pieces going from the + batt. to fuse block, fuse block to alt and make that one fused piece. What size fuse for this piece?

Thats the ground I was talking about in # 3 of my setup, I have it going from there to the - of the batt. Then I added to the stock,one from - batt. to the passenger fender. I just don't know if that covers me for all the grounds......

I know I'm not getting all 2200, not even close, thats why I wanted to upgrade my alt and batt up front and maybe a kinetik in the back.

stock alt generates 110 Amps at some unknown engine speed.

Thats 1584 watts at the output terminal of your alternator... So tell me how you plan to magically make up the rest of the power, and get it to the amp?

None of the things you mentioned will help you.

Just do the "big three" and get a HO alternator already. You dont need special batteries or a cap unless your amp sucks.

http://www.oqcgp.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=51927

Follow what that guy did...

I'm not magically making up any power. I was stating what wattage my amps put out. Relax it's okay. I stated I WAS getting a HO alt. The purpose of this thread was to clarify if what I had already done big 3 wise, was correct. I would never run a cap, they're the biggest joke going.

Thanks for the link that confirms what I've done it correct.

sorry for the repetitive commentary, i dislike reading.

Awesome thanks man!

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

If you are running an H.O. alt then there IS a benefit to big 3--assuming you ARE using that power. However, you should be aware of v-droop and amperage that the length of a cable can maintain. If I were you, I'd upgrade the wiring but get rid of a secondary battery. Unless you plan to run your system when the engine is off there's no real use for it.

Alright ill keep that in mind, thanks!

What amp fuse should go between my alt and + of the batt? I'm assuming this answer will change once I have a HO alt.

150 for stock. 200-250 for HO.

Alright let me know, they list 2 different models of the 200 and 220 amp. Cant see any difference, kind of odd.