Turning to the SQ side! Need suggestions - Page 2 - DIY Mobile Audio
OP!!!!
Read the aboveI won't get into what they're speaking about but you can definitely research the site to find out more concerning speaker specs. In the end, you gotta be the fisherman.
After I finish a few things in my own project I'll be looking to go ported with my R12's. My DSP is built into my cda-9887. Check my links and you can see photos of my alpine MrTube. It's only designed for 3-way. Pioneer plans on releasing a 1k h/u from their Premier replacement line. It is 4-way w/30band R/L EQI need the 4-way for my rear fill implementation. They also moved the jog dial for the iPod to the remote. It's a beautiful deck. You can buy the Japan version for ~1200 and it contains a 6 channel 50w amp. The Euro version doesn't have the amp.
Oh ya...tweeters aren't that big of a deal when it comes to path length distance. I'd say shoot for 15 or 20 degrees off axis(depending on tweet, but reflections make tweets go crazy). They respond much better to attenuation while mids respond better to time alignement. I'm thinking of going with kicks for mids and tweets on the upper door towards the a-pillar; about head level for me. Subs don't need t/a because their wave lengths are typically larger than the vehicles cabin.
I'd also like to point out that passive cross overs tend to vary in response due to temperatures and load values. Active DSP cross overs = gewd times and much more consistant. Some of the best speakers maintain passive x-overs but they're dealing with home audio. The correct way to build a passive in a vehicle MUST be based on specific cabin design in relationship to speaker placement too. Europeans have a thing for starting out active during tuning and building passives based on the parameters they finalize. It helps with k.i.s.s.
