Thread: Getting new subs want opinons.

Originally Posted by MrTube

matt : i'm fairly certain a 12 or 15" driver will have breakup at low frequencies as well. However before I speak I am doing a bit of research.

The question is, what 12 or 15" driver are you going to have playing that high that you need to concern yourself?

If you ARE running a woofer that high, then its no longer playing the roll of the sub but rather the midwoofer. Be prepared to spend big coin on a good midwoofer.

DIY TC Sounds LMS-5400 18" sealed 100L - Home Theater Forum - Home Theater Systems - HomeTheaterShack

And that is the single best subwoofer ever made in terms of low end output and sounding good doing it.

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

I think what I heard is the same argument we always have...processing vs no processing

EQ vs. dedicated build?

I agree with T/A but not EQ.


To anyone/everyone:

To me, this is how I see your ideal car audio system going down...

- a pair of subs in the rear deck covering 0-40 Hz

- a midbass driver in each door covering 40-200 Hz

- a midrange either on the dash or the door covering 200-(2000-4000) Hz (range is there due to size constraints and design restraints that may arise, also IMD comes into play and causes bad things to happen )

- either a pair of tweeters on both sides or a single widerange driver that covers 2-4 KHz up to say 15 Khz

- a supertweeter on each side for +15 Khz

The supertweeter part only applies if you can still hear that high

In home audio, the tweeter part is simple: ribbon tweeter.

In home audio, the midrange part is simple: pro audio mid range

In home audio, the woofer part is simple: capable woofer such as a pro audio woofer or perhaps one of the AE woofers.

In home audio, the sub part is complex because of "size" constraints and the WAF if any of you even KNOW what WAF means around here