Thread: Getting new subs want opinons.

"i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned"

And if the power ratings on any speaker really meant anything this would matter.

"he design in the middle is funtional so little distortion"
The dust cap!? Or did you mean the voice coil and magnet, most of those are functional As far as the dustcap yea, its functional it keeps dust out.

"they have rubber surround not foam"
I have woofers going as far back as the 60s with butyl rubber surrounds, not a big deal. And as far as stiched and not glued. I've glued on many a surround that I dare you to try and pull off the cone. you wont be able too.

A friend of mine has a pair of alpine subs, the surrounds came off one day when it was really cold out, So i reglued them. Its been 8 years and their still on there

If cheap companies used real glue they wouldn't be having problems and having to come up with gimmicks IMO.

Originally Posted by realdiehl

MTX, Hertz, Diamond Audio, RE

Originally Posted by CTKGP09

KICKER no question about it...they have rubber surround not foam, they r double stitched not glued, the design in the middle is funtional so little distortion, and they r incredibly hard to blow, i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned

Come on guys... step away from the store brands and step up to some real subs.

Originally Posted by MrTube

"i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned"

And if the power ratings on any speaker really meant anything this would matter.

"he design in the middle is funtional so little distortion"
The dust cap!? Or did you mean the voice coil and magnet, most of those are functional As far as the dustcap yea, its functional it keeps dust out.

"they have rubber surround not foam"
I have woofers going as far back as the 60s with butyl rubber surrounds, not a big deal. And as far as stiched and not glued. I've glued on many a surround that I dare you to try and pull off the cone. you wont be able too.

A friend of mine has a pair of alpine subs, the surrounds came off one day when it was really cold out, So i reglued them. Its been 8 years and their still on there

If cheap companies used real glue they wouldn't be having problems and having to come up with gimmicks IMO.

Don't be so harsh, he has no idea what makes a good speaker and possibly how one even works.

If only I didn't work so much... Perhaps I'd actually complete that speaker "guide"

Epoxy works wonders.

Ok,

Again Matt, We all know you don't work.

I didn't intend for the response to be harsh, I'm sorry if i came across as such.


But, I still don't think you work .

Originally Posted by matt5112

Come on guys... step away from the store brands and step up to some real subs.

matt have you ever owned any of the brands listed above if so what model year, size and how many watts did you put on each

30 a week? I've been doing 50....
whats with the bankers hours?

In fact, isnt 30 hours considered part time technically?

I guess not even your wife can please you.

the wife works a lot more then 30 hours a week, and no complaints with her in any regard.

Originally Posted by matt5112

A) I'm just kidding.

B) I'm just kidding.

C) I'm still just kidding

D) Perhaps you guys should consider some of the ID brands since they have lower overhead for a similar/better quality product.

That is all.



This isn't so much about "real" or not but rather "can find online for cheap"

Fi Car Audio

AE Speakers

SoundSplinter

Mach5 Audio

Creative Sound Solutions

TC Sounds/Audiopulse (Dead, Used still floating around)

Probably missing some.

AQ

DC (older stuff)

DD

Sundown
theres more i just can't think of them

and don't dis what you have never owned

Originally Posted by MrTube

I800 : you mean Thiel-Small figures?



as far as not "dissing" things you have not owned. I've owned enough speakers\amplifiers to dis almost every brand out there.

However, you don't have to own something to realize a HEAVY cone is a bad one. And a cone with decorations that do nothing but make it weigh more is BAD, for example the kickers with the big plastic rib thing on the cone.

Most don't realize "shiney" paper cones weigh MORE then a dull raw paper cone and perform worse because of it.

The lighter and more rigid the cone, the better. cosmetics do absolutely nothing. well, other then make 90% of people buy the stuff. but they have no effect on actual performance.

and as far as why weight is so important? if you can gain 3db on sensitivity you can use half the power yet get the same output. if you can gain 6dB "not difficult when you look at most mainstream car subs" you can use 1/4 the power and produce the same output.

why use 2000W when you can do the same with 500W with the proper drivers? From what i've seen the typical car sub has a sensitivity in the 80s. 85dB for example, if you have a speaker with a sensitivity of 98dB "Not horribly difficult with proper design" you will get the same output with 100W with the 98dB sensitivity sub as you would with 800 watts with the 85dB sub.

Below about 40-50 Hz you start to require Xmax more than sensitivity to produce high sound levels.

As for the whole dissing thing... And you're going to tell me anything by any brand you've tried and thought worked well is good?

Good companies make bad products from time to time.

"Good companies make bad products from time to time." Absolutely.

heres one, 5900ULTRA. I paid $520 for one.. and had $300 ATI cards raping it...

Not audio related, but same rule. Don't buy by brand, EVER. Buy by product.

Originally Posted by MrTube

"Good companies make bad products from time to time." Absolutely.

heres one, 5900ULTRA. I paid $520 for one.. and had $300 ATI cards raping it...

Not audio related, but same rule. Don't buy by brand, EVER. Buy by product.

We could talk cars too... but people defend those like their children.

Well ... we had a simple solution.

Some Fi's, in a manufacturer's rec. box.

But people decided to get complicated...

Originally Posted by I800C0LLECT

I hate to be a jerk. Just because it sounds "good" doesn't mean it's duplicating the source. Although music should sound the way you want...accurate isn't always what it turns out to be.

I think SQ and SPL are terms that are used very loosely. My goals are to represent the recording as is with little coloration. Majority of subs will not come close to this because of the huge cabin gan. In that sense you must EQ or design according to a response curve. How many people have ever used T/s parameters when designing their box? Buying a speaker and throwing it in a random box isn't SPL or SQ. At least try to figure out what the branded company suggests and shoot for that.

O RLY?

Flat sound is an arbitrary goal no one really wants.

I did that before I quickly slapped together a box for my 18. It'll move the box up and down with a 60 amp fuse in the line

Its more complicated than how you make it sound.

Each car has a different cabin gain "curve" and each different subwoofer position has a different cabin gain "curve" and each different listening position has a different cabin gain "curve"...

Kinda pointless to some extent trying to please everyone when the speakers are so damn close to everyone.

This is why... sealed subs generally result in a flat sound "curve" in cars and ported subs generally peak like mad.