Thread: sound system blueprint/conception

i have an 07 base gp. it has the monsoon system in it, but i'm not to impressed by that. the treble is way to screechy and piercing. the midrange is focused to much in the high-mid and sounds pretty thin, then there's the general lack of bass. some music sounds good, some sounds terrible.

as of right now, my plan is to replace the HU, add an amp and subs (i'll get more specific later).

question one; should i change out ALL of the speakers, and not just the HU? is the perircing treble due too the HU? or the speakers? will replacing the HU help? or is it only curable after a total overhual?

question two; speaking of head units, where should i start? things i want from it are:
reasonable price - about $200
aux input, or usb.
play any cd: audio, mp3, and data.
compatable with steering wheel controls.
red lights.

and here are some that i've found that fit these (feedback please):
A) Kenwood KDC-MP438U CD receiver at Crutchfield Outlet
B) Pioneer Premier DEH-P310UB CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
C) Pioneer DEH-P4100UB CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

also, is the larger size of the stock head unit a problem? and can i still use the six disc changer?

Question 3; amps and subs. i wanted to go with the pioneer shallowmount subs so i could keep them in the cab (under the rear seats?), because i'm told that the quality is better that way as apposed to in the trunk. i also have two friends with systems, one in the trunk one in the cab of his truck, and the friend with the subs in his truck cabin's system sounds better, imo, despite costing half as much. but this could be due to other variables.

i really have no idea on an amp, wouldn't it be better to stay with pioneer? nor do i know what are good numbers, wattage wise, or anything really.

subs:
A) Pioneer TS-SW3041D Shallow-mount 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
B) Pioneer Premier TS-SW1201S4 Shallow-mount 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

thanks.

first, i want good sound.
the pioneer head unit? cool.
second, not even the shallow mount ones? bummer.
is it true that it sounds better in the cabin as apposed to in the trunk?
third, the head units say they come with a remote control, i assume IR. and from looking around i've seen different adapters and stuff for a wired connection or getting the wheel to send IR.

EDIT: i want to keep it under a grand.

ok, thanks for the adapter sites. i figured wired would be better.
no i don't have on-star.
yeah and plus i had a friend who used to work doing that kinda stuff and he said he'd help out.

well, it depends on the guitar i guess. like, i listen to a lot of metal, and bands like all shall perish and children of bodom sound really bad because they tend to have a lot of treble in the guitar sound, as opposed to something like born of osiris, who have a darker sound, which actually sounds pretty good.

Originally Posted by Derek

well, it depends on the guitar i guess. like, i listen to a lot of metal, and bands like all shall perish and children of bodom sound really bad because they tend to have a lot of treble in the guitar sound, as opposed to something like born of osiris, who have a darker sound, which actually sounds pretty good.

Trying to build based around genre isn't always the best idea unless your short on money. If accurate response is your goal then your subject to even the recording of the actual songs too. An example would be Red Hot Chilli Peppers. HORRIBLE RECORDING!!!!!!!!!! That's where EQ comes in to help flatten the response curve from your speakers.

You will never obtain a perfect setup to encompass general use. If it's a crappy recording...good luck. If it's a good recording, it won't be the same as the next great recording.

You need to establish over all goals and attempt to define "good quality". Quality sound through my perspective has a lot to do with accurate frequency response vs. "this hits hard!!". Honestly, 20hz always hits hard if your sub can reproduce it and you've set up the hardware correctly. 20hz is the same whether it's from a jet engine or a blip in a speaker if it's produced accurately. "Characteristics" of a sound system is a completely different ball game. Unfortunately, that involves a lot of trial and error if you're anal about it.

Anyways, I'm on the DIYMA forums...lates.

Hrmmm. If you're into SQ I'd suggest researching. Audio is quite the science...it's not as simple as just installing speakers and amps.

Currently I've been on DIYMA. I've been reading for over a year and I have a parts list currently but no install. That's my next step. I wouldn't say it's expensive but majority of your SQ comes from install...not parts.

Either way...I have an '04 Comp G. Here's my list so far...

Alpine CDA-9887
I wanted a nice double din touch screen but I would have to couple with a processor to make up for lack of clean signal. The 9887 also gives me very good options for active tuning from the drivers seat.

Audiocontrol DQS - supplement the processing from 9887 with amazing EQ options to help create a nice flat response

Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 amp
Great guys, looks to be a great amp too. Known for SPL; this is their first SQ amp.

a/d/s/ 346is front speakers
Going passive at first and possibly active later. First option is 320x2 from the SAX. If I go active it'll be 4x100

Rear "fill"
Mid-range (not mid-sub) speaker ranging from ~250hz thru 3000hz using differential bias from mono L/R inputs to the amp.
Hey Werewolf, confusion about L-R... - DIY Mobile Audio

I'm powering the "fill" with TXA-3002 (150x2)

My subwoofer is a DIYMA R12
DIYMA 12" Sub CLEARANCE ... until supplies last - DIY Mobile Audio
Unfortunately you can't purchase it anymore. It's powered by...

TXA-750D by Cadence.

The Cadence amps are great entry level amps. Kind of cheesy looking and cheap to feel but great bang for buck; especially for power output. They are not over-rated on power by any means. If I had the choice over I would use the IA series...specifically the iA2.

Cadence iA2 - Powermax Electronics

Anyways...this is my particular build centered around sound quality. I have yet to install but there's a lot of research to consider if you really wanna get it right. I'm usually on the DIYMA forums. I was looking through here to look for amp rack ideas, etc.

If you'd like to ask any questions about parts, relationships between parts, or install questions PM me on the DIYMA forums.

Basic Car Audio Electronics

Helpful Links For Beginners - DIY Mobile Audio

also if your gonna put subs in for metal 10's sound better than 12's because they can handle the double base and keep it tighter and clearer sounding

Originally Posted by David

also if your gonna put subs in for metal 10's sound better than 12's because they can handle the double base and keep it tighter and clearer sounding

I'm not trying to be a jerk but you're on the right path. Speaker design has a lot to do with the ability of a cone to recover in time to respond to the next note. Excursion also plays a role, as well as how the speaker is hung, magnets used, etc. Cone is only one small aspect of the speaker.

So here's the real question...was the speaker designed to be accurate or loud? THAT in itself will reveal possible characteristics the sub will maintain. Something designed for SPL isn't always what a SQ guy wants. However, in order to be loud the speaker must also be accurate mechanically. In this instance you run into some speakers that can be used in a hybrid install of sorts referred to as SQL.

Anyways...I've heard this is a great sub low profile sub...

FS: Exile XT10 NIB - DIY Mobile Audio

Here's an install for IASCA using them...

One more 350Z for the IASCA lanes - DIY Mobile Audio

Last comment...don't buy amps and try to find speakers to match. Buy your speakers FIRST and buy amps that match power requirements.