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The current sensor measures current to control the charging strategy of the alternator. Operating voltages of 12.5-15.1 are normal for 04+.
Jeff
Well I replaced the sensor. Car still isn't running right. And it's gotten to the point were it has to be jumped to be started. Even if you just charged it for 3 hours and then drove it. If you try to start it right back up it won't even start. If you think it's the battery its tested good on the cR several times recently. But I'll get it tested off the car today just because. It's looking like this car's gonna have to go to a shop, cuz I'm stumped.
If the car will start on a jump, then won't start after running then there is a dead cell in the battery.
Curious as to how it tested good with a dead cell, the issue your experiencing is the fact that the battery isnt putting out 12v. lol What brand battery was it? If you havent gotten a replacement yet, I recommend a 26R, fits in the battery tray perfectly, but is shorter and not as wide, making it alot easier to get in and out when need be.
Just make sure if you buy one it has the terminals on the correct side.
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I'm surprised you didn't get the security warning.
Disconnecting the battery reset all your trims so your ECU has some relearning to do. I would also check the connections and make sure they are properly tightened.
Verify all your grounds are good, you should have one that goes to the block under the front manifold, one on the front of the transmission, and the main ground should bolt over to the trans on the drivers side somewhere, honestly i forgot what the exact location is, ill have to take a look under the hood of my car. What's the condition of everything under the hood? When I bought mine I had massive electrical issues mainly related to the harness itself, mainly from neglectful mechanic work, and just piss poor quality of the loom that GM uses on their harnesses. I had several sections of cut and frayed wire that were merely the result of wear and tear from constantly being exposed to heat and rubbing against the engine. If you have sections of your wiring harness that the loom has corroded and failed, check for frayed wires. The main positive and ground wires coming off the battery also run next to the radiator and in front of the pulley system, and there is a large loom of wire that runs from the fuse block over the belt on the pulley side that could potentially have made contact.
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Your main positive and negative cables on the battery are an independent harness from the engine harness itself, heres a few of the connections on the main cables.
and a picture of that harness
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Hmmm, at a loss here, only thing I can really think of at this point is a harness problem or a module problem. Only other cheap fix I can recommend is clean every connection at every module (ECU, TCM, BCM, etc) with deoxit 100 to make sure all the connections are solid where they plug in.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D100S-2-D...9NT8B2N32G7JSR
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITBwoFq_zps
So this morning I went ahead & left the GXP @ a local transmission shop. They're a place that I've had dealings with before & the folks there are fairly familiar with W Bodies. So Im really hoping they can figure out what's wrong.
Shop said they're done with GXP. Seems they checked all the connections & all of the wiring harness & couldn't find anything wrong. They tell me they test drove it a few times & didn't experience any problems. We'll see...
Got the GXP back today. So far it seems to run great. All the shop did was pull & inspect the wiring harness & check the connections. So, fingers crossed then, yea?
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