Pretty much, rev it up some and start going in slow and once you just a little left just dump the rest and let off the gas at the same time. It may cough or come close to dying and then just shut it off and let it sit for a while.
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Pretty much, rev it up some and start going in slow and once you just a little left just dump the rest and let off the gas at the same time. It may cough or come close to dying and then just shut it off and let it sit for a while.
Yup. Agree with the above. Done it myself. A second foot is required so someone can sit in the car and push the gas. When I did mine last year I had them attempt to keep my RPMs at 2k
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This is why you just do a little at a time . the car won't die. Remember I'm not telling you to pull the heads but I'm just saying the only realistic way is to pull heads if you wanted ALL carbon out.
And don't forget the trans pan magnet!!
As far as coolers go, people use tep to support our community. But a rv sized trans cooler in the bar plate variety will do the trick there like 60bucks on amazon
91 I'm gonna send u an email this evening with a thread I'm working on. Kinda like the GXP 10 commandments except details of why and everything.
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Engine needs to be warm so soon as you roll up in the driveway let her rip
15 to 20 minutes will be long enough. theres directions on the side of the bottle. follow them all but the oil in the crank case part, thats frowned upon. can kill your engine.
The fix for the oil consumption issue is the updated gm AFM oil pan gasket. What ends up happening I'd the oil relief valve sprays into a pocket which shoots directly up in the back cylinders of the engine causing oil to get burned up. The gm gasket blocks and redirects oil back in the pan.
So dumb question. Will I need that new oil pan gasket once the AFM has been tuned out?
Just flushed the coolant, will do shift kit, new fluid , filter and cooler next week. Where's the best spot to order everything in one shot.. also I don't think I need a $300 cooler, what would be the best option and one that comes with everything I need for the install. Although I will admit the ones that have all the braided lines earls connections and are basically bolt on are tempting.
Little bit of an upgrade from the ol' blower car, eh?
I'm pretty impressed with mine. Number is in my signature, and I got it on Amazon for less than a hundo. Tru-Cool #4590. It's a biggin', lol. I'm a huge fan of the overly huge cooler...the transmission never hits 180*. Ever.
Yea. Really like it. So much like the ol GT , but so far apart lol
Really excited to get the shift kit , cooler, in and then get a tune.
I reeeeeallly hope gm bottlenecked these factory tunes , because I am expecting quite a noticeable performance difference for tuning a bone stock car for $500
500?! Wtf better do your mods first then. That's why I learned to just tune my own **** cause I'm cheap lol. An no you don't need to do the gasket once AFM is turned off but its good to eventually do . I'd strongly recommend you take care the motor mounts too. Those suck major balls as well. Amazon can be sourced for pretty much all the parts.
Id get that factory downpipe done before you're tune as well. There's a lot of room for improvement and tuning these cars really makes it a lot more fun. Make sure you also get the plugs and words taken care of first. NGK tr6ix and msd wires have working great for Years for me
It would damn near be cost effective to come down here and have your car tuned.
$500 is insane!
Yea. Lol 500 is a lot , but if it makes a good improvement, makes the car run better and helps saves the transmission. I'm all in
I think I'm going to get the shift kit, the cooler, and filter for the trans, a catch can , and then get or make a diy intake, and call it good. Seafoam it or get a decarbonizing change the plugs then get the tune.
2 things I'm on the edge about are the TB spacer and the downpipe from zzp. Is the spacer worth $120, really? Sounds like people pay that for the sound vs. The performance.
Downpipe: I already did a resonator delete and love the sound. Little louder, little deeper by not rappy... my problem with the downpipe is that your paying $225 for a U bend delete. I could cut the cat off, and put a straight pipe in for nothing. Just wondering if its worth it, or people have actually noticed anything from using a catless DP.
For 500 just buy a Diablo tuner and u can get as many tunes as u want.
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Not on these...but you need more than just a handheld to reap the full benefits from something say: HPT. I noticed a huge difference with my car after we tuned it.
I have the 3" catted ZZP downpipe, I'm a fan. Which is huge considering it's ZZP and I never care for them. I also got the Intense Upper Poly's (square and circle insert).
My GXP had a pretty ugly looking downpipe, still looked like a partial U-Bend anyways, and unless you tune the code out for no cat, the remote start won't work. I noticed decent gains just from that, the open cone, and poly mounts. Tune really pulled it all together.
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