Thread: Cruise KR, and a lot of it.

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

Just bought two Carquest Knock Sensors from Advance Auto online. With the coupon, it was $65. Not too bad at all.

I'll pick them up tomorrow, hopefully and maybe have them installed early this week. Fingers crossed next time i'll be posting in this thread, is for good news.

I would have only used AC delco knock sensors personally. Or delphi/denso, whatever they would be under.

Too many people in the LS truck world have issue with non delco knock sensors.

Advance had Delphi Sensors but they weren't in stock and would have have to be shipped. Plus they were $10 more a sensor, and I would have had to pay shipping.

I guess we'll see how these work.

Is your car a 97? I ran into the same thing with my turbo build. Part throttle would show massive kr. After much research it seems that many 97s tend to have this issue. Long story short the only fix that I could find is disable the knock sensors below 2500 rpm. While not ideal it does the job. Good luck on finding a fix. Keep us posted if you do find a fix.

Yeah my car is a 97, and I have also been starting to read this a common problem with this year.

Showing HUGE amounts of part throttle KR while cruising anywhere - city, highway, light acceleration is killing my MPG's and making the car run like a dog with so much KR and little to no Ignition Advance.

Replacing both sensors, is the next step. If that doesn't help, I will be disabling the Knock Sensors under 2500 - 3k RPM like you mentioned.

Here's the deal. Replaced the front knock sensor and unplugged the back. Went for a drive and still sees 14.9* KR. At this point, I'm just going to have the knock sensors disabled under a certain RPM.

Another issue with the car though. Went to start the car after golfing and nothing. Just one click and dead. Figured it was the battery. Bought a new Duralast Gold and replaced it in the parking lot. Once again, turn the ignition on, everything lights up like normal, start the car and just one click then dead. I've noticed there is a very minimal spark and small puff of smoke coming from the positive side terminal when trying to start the car.

I also notice on my volts gauge, when I turn the ignition on I can watch the voltage drop. Some kind parasitic draw on the battery.

I've come to a few conclusions but would like insight before putting more money into it.

1: Battery terminals are bad, not causing a good connection. (Terminals are not corroded though).

2: Battery cable positive to the starter is "bad" causing a faulty connection.

3: Starter/Starter Solenoid is bad. In my case, I'd just replace the whole starter.

Car is getting towed back to my house on Sunday and hopefully look at it then.

hit the starter with a hammer or a rock, what ever you got, then try to fire it up. if the click is heard form the dash, your starter is likely bad.

Hit the starter with a hammer, try to start the car and if nothing again, starter is bad?

it could be, if you got help with you, aka a key turner, have them hold the key to start while you hit the body of the starter.

the click, wheres it heard from?

Sheesh, sorry to hear man. That's a lot of mess to go through just to realize it didn't solve the issue.

Sounds though like you've got something hot getting grounded. I could see that causing KR issues too so maybe related? Be curious to know what your volts were doing at the same time your KR increases. If it were me I'd be looking over the alt to fuse to battery to starter wires first. Look for anything rubbed through/suspicious. Maybe even have someone start the car in the dark while you look sparks jumping anywhere.

All it is, is just one single click. Not sure exactly where its coming from, but I'm assuming it's the starter Solenoid clicking once.

solenoids dont click in these cars when the starter dies. you hear the click from the dash. like behind the cluster area. you try to jump the starter with a screw driver yet? connect the 12 volt cable stud to the little wire's stud with a screw driver, it will spark and it should crank.

you can also test the little wire on the starter for power when the key is turned to start. a test light will turn on key to start if its getting power. no power it could be a relay.

I'll give that a try tomorrow. Let's say I jump the starter and it doesn't spark or crank?

Starter completely dead, or is it just not getting power?

the cable from the battery to the starter is hot all the time. its the little wire that that tells the solenoid to turn the starter motor on when the key is turned. connect them and the starter thinks it got power from the key.

if it sparks and does nothing the starter motor is locked up.


when my starter went bad it was fine till one morning it did nothing when the key was turned. ( but click in the dash) hit it with a hammer and it fired up.

i even took the starter out, removed the solenoid and tested the motor its self, it did nothing with jumper cables hooked to it, tap it and it started to work.

Let's say I do the screwdriver trick and it doesn't spark at all? Power wire from battery to starter bad?

When the car gets towed to my house tomorrow, I'll try jumping the starter and then report back on my findings.

you put a new battery in right? it should have power at the end of the cable.

when you jump the two terminals together it sparks like a mother, like scare ya sparks if your not used to it.

it will spark good or bad. mine did.

id test for power at the little wire right off the bat, if you have power key to start the starter is bad. while your threre test the pos cable, it should be at 12 volts car off or on.