Bell housing bolt

**jfrey** · 01-19-2015

What is the trick to getting the bracket off behind the power steering pump so you can get to the backwards bell housing bolt?

**BrandonHall10** · 01-19-2015

No trick. A lot of extensions, good aim, and a little luck. Didn't have to take anything other than the tire and splash shields off IIRC. Maybe the oil filter...

It's tight. No doubt about it!

**GTPpower** · 01-19-2015

Iirc, I've had good luck with a 3" extension and leaning over the motor from the top to get the 2 on the block. The 2 bolts in the diff cover should be pretty easy from the wheel well. You also may need to pull the oil pressure sensor.

**Scottydoggs** · 01-19-2015

take that bracket off then from the wheel well you can see the bolt. use a 3 foot extension and your wrenching from the wheel well.

**jfrey** · 01-20-2015

Thanks, The bracket is what I was struggling with. But I got it last night. Alot of determination and no fear of busted knuckles involved. Bolts very tight!

**jfrey** · 01-20-2015

Thanks.

**jfrey** · 01-20-2015

Thanks you.

**BillBoost37** · 01-20-2015

I was going to ask what you were working on..

Bonnevilles and some other cars had a ps bracket as well.

**blueguy** · 01-20-2015

Originally Posted by GTPpower

Iirc, I've had good luck with a 3" extension and leaning over the motor from the top to get the 2 on the block. The 2 bolts in the diff cover should be pretty easy from the wheel well. You also may need to pull the oil pressure sensor.

This.

It's even a billion times easier with the head and manifold out of the way, lolol.

**BillBoost37** · 01-22-2015

Heck..even if the exhaust manifold is the only thing missing..lol

I've successfully removed the backwards bolt and pulled a motor out w/o taking off the passenger tire.

**99GPGTP** · 01-29-2015

i used my 3ft 1/2 extension that reduces to a 3/8 and put a swivel socket on and got right on it with only removing the bracket that bolts to the trans and engine. i used a ratchet and deep socket to get the two bolts that go in the engine.

**VinnieGTP** · 01-31-2015

Ahhh, the "***** bolt" strikes again. Its rather easy with enough extensions.

**BillBoost37** · 02-02-2015

Anyone reading the thread might understand..he's asking about the diff to engine bracket.

**GTPpower** · 02-02-2015

I was gonna say, lots of you guys failed at reading. But, meh.

**BrandonHall10** · 02-02-2015

Guilty.

But I don't recall having to take that bracket off to get to the "backward" bolt.

**BillBoost37** · 02-03-2015

Can't get trans out if you don't pull that bracket.

**BrandonHall10** · 02-03-2015

Right. But we just unbolted it from the trans at the diff cover, and left the bracket attached to the engine.
Didn't actually "take the bracket off." I guess I'm splitting hairs though. Just wanting to save someone a little work.

**jfrey** · 02-03-2015

nice picture of the bracket. thanks for all the help. I know how I'm going to put this thing back together. I'm going to put a re ring kit in the used motor I bought, then put the short block in the car and build the rest of the motor in the car. Should have plenty of access to the hidden bolt and bracket on the install over top of the short block.

**Sven the Sexman** · 02-03-2015

Originally Posted by jfrey

nice picture of the bracket. thanks for all the help. I know how I'm going to put this thing back together. I'm going to put a re ring kit in the used motor I bought, then put the short block in the car and build the rest of the motor in the car. Should have plenty of access to the hidden bolt and bracket on the install over top of the short block.

A little piece of advice...don't re-ring the engine. Once you crack those connecting rods apart and remove the bearings, you then distort the factory bearing. Which means time for new rod bearings. New rod bearings don't like the 3800 for some reason and most people end up with a nice knocking noise in about 500 miles. I say if the cylinder walls look good, run it as is.