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10-31-2014
10-31-2014
Where did it go that it had to return?
Originally Posted by Sven The Sexman
10-31-2014
1999 GTP with the common knocking of a spun rod bearing...
10-31-2014
Worn cam beaing, scored oil pump housing. Crankshaft damaged and can't be repaired...
10-31-2014
L32 rod on the left and L67 rod on the right. Replacing all the rod with L32's
10-31-2014
Reman. crankshaft and bearing for the rebuild....
Block is now bored and honed, mains got lined honed, block surface decked.
10-31-2014
Front of block with new cam bearing and oil galley plugs installed.
ARP main studs and brass freeze plugs.
10-31-2014
New timing cover. Installing oil pump gears. ZZP high pressure release components installed.
Torquing the oil pump retainer plate.
Last edited by Flashman; 10-31-2014 at 03:33 PM. Reason: misspelled word
10-31-2014
I remember this all too well.
Hopefully you had everything bored correctly for the main studs. If you didn't, you'll have a 500~ mile special.
10-31-2014
ZZP for the pistons. Pistons arrived and ready for the machine shop to complete the balancing. Found the pistons were shipped with the incorrect pins. And an opened package, found one piston clip missing. ZZP was no help at all.
One email to Silvolite/United Engine and Machine and received a phone call 30 minutes later. Glen from tech support shipped out the correct pins and new clips. He also wanted the info of each piston in the set, making sure any of their inventory will not be shipped with the wrong pins.
Parts ready for some assembly....
Filing the piston gaps. 40% greater top ring gap is required using KB hypereutectic pistons.
Deburring the rings after filing.
Using a old piston and ring to set a ring inside the bore for measuring.
10-31-2014
Gauges getting wired...
10-31-2014
...a rebuilt 3800 is pretty rare! LOL
Most would drop a new short block in and be done with it.
Good luck!
10-31-2014
Checking camshaft degreeing. Ccmp cams VS... camshaft card specification 113 degrees intake center line. Degree wheel measuring 114.5 degrees.
10-31-2014
nice work, most wont go this far. at least it all looks like its been done right.
10-31-2014
Rear oil seal housing. Requires a special alignment tool. Tool fits around the crankshaft to center the housing. This housing also routes the main oil gallery to both banks of the engine.
Lower end is finished. Cylinder heads are cracked. Super Dave wants another set of heads...ugh
10-31-2014
OEM bolts are stretch to yield. ARP studs torqued at 80 lbs. Studs were installed when lined honed. ARP recommends line honing when using their hardware.
10-31-2014
Yup; this is what I was checking on...
People assume they can just install and go, and then the motor lasts 500~ miles or less before chucking out another bearing. Good to hear you're doing it right.
10-31-2014
blueguy, nice comment. Hopefully this info will help avoid someone making a error when rebuilding their engine. ARP studs were installed prior to any block machining. OEM main cap bolts are torque to yield. ARP studs are torqued at 80lbs. ARP recommends line honing when using their product.
10-31-2014
Is it because people reuse the TTY cap bolts that these engines typically fail shortly after rebuild? Is there a few "must do" things that get missed?
Surely it is possible to rebuild a reliable L67 if the proper steps are taken and the proper materials used, no?
10-31-2014
Nope; you have to line bore the mains to not have anything out of whack for the studs.
Without correctly line boring it even with stock TTY bolts, when you smack the main caps out of place, it ruins that minute bit of alignment that the factory installation might have had; in a nutshell.
Besides slapping everything else back together...the most commonly missed thing IS the proper machine work, which has been shown in this thread.
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