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Hold down both buttons/knobs until the climate control display shows 00.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHRxXD3adXx
Then you can turn the driver side knob to 12. Then turn the passenger side one click.
This will show you the engine coolant temp minus 60 degrees. Not sure why there is a 60 degree offset, but there is. If your temp is 200, then it will read 140 and so forth.
if the fans turn on at 212 like they should. but the dash gauge goes higher and its not really over heating, then then the temp sensor would be where i start.
big question is, is it truly going to over heat or not? is it lacking power, pinging, stalling out, over flow bottle burping and over flowing?
check the wires too, and the wires to that short pig tail harness, they bake in the exhaust heat and go bad over time. can cause the same issue.
Ok well these are all good ideas i think my temp sensor might be the issue. Im going to check more on this and ill let you guys know
heres the thing..... may sound retarded but how is the belt wrapped? it IS possible to wrap the wrong side of the water pump pulley and the stock belt will fit just fine. this will cause the water pump to cavitate the coolant and car will act like the coolant isnt flowing.
Fans kicked on at 240 according to the cars guage. Temp on screen said 118
Ok my scaner says its 90c which is about 190f and the guage in the car reads 250f almos in the red zone. Can we say i have a bad temp sensor?
But why is it that my top radiator hose is really hot and bottom one is cold after my car was on for a good while?
hot coolant enters the top of the rad, then cools it a lot by the time it leaves the lower hose back to the engine.
sounds like the sensor is bad.
my car with a 195 t stat runs around 190 to 195 moving, as high as 210-212 left idling.
you also need to remember the t stat only opens for a short amount of time. once cooler coolant hits the t stat it shuts again.
Ok then i should be good. just need a sensor then. I also found the vacum leak while i was messing with the lower house hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
Hey guys so i got a new sensor and right away it went to red and its gave me a code reading a high circuit on the sensor. Is that sensor bad too? Now the car wont start
double check the wires to the sensor.
why it wont start is a mystery tho. does it crank? if so check for fuel and spark.
Went and got another sensor so far so good
sounds good. more proof to them being bad brand new a lot of the time.
Yea no kidding i used 3 before if finally worked. The first 3 were from the same parts store then that last one was from a different and it finally worked
Now i replaced a caliper. Whats the best way too bleed my breaks i already went around the whole car bleeding it but still have no breaks
did you let the master go dry? and are you with help, like a pedal pumper person?
No i didnt but i removed both front calipers. And i was but not anymore but ill have a friend come agian in a bit
so the master cylinder went dry and you pumped it a few times empty?
No it had fluid on it the whole time im sure i kept cheking it. What happens if it goes dry
you have to bleed the master. theres a trick to it.
you can make a one man bleeder if you have some clear tubing that fits the bleeder nipple. i made one, works damn good. as im always working alone on my car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs
if you only took the fronts off and the master stayed full the backs should be good to go, no need to bleed them.
Hey i did it exactly as the video has it and my breaks are still way to soft. I ended up going around the whole car 3 times