So the front knock sensor is in coolant, and rear is in oil? Or is there another reason my rear knock sensor has oil on it and inside the plug?
|
If the rear sensor has oil on it you may want to check the rear valve cover for oil leaks. Might be draining down the block and onto the sensor. If there is too big of a mess back there might be time to power wash it all clean and track down the leak from there.
I've only put about 5k miles on this engine since I put it in my car. While it was out of the car I did every gasket from the oil pan up so a gasket failing is very upsetting =(
And now it's acting like it has a dead battery. I just let the car run for about an hour and a half after jumping it. Shut it off for about a minute and then tried it again and just 1 click then all lights shut off.
Makes me think bad connection. Unplugged the positive terminal and plugged it back in, tightened the negative, and it turned the lights on. Then as soon as I went to turn it over, everything shut off again...
So Idk
Do you think there was a possibility of the wire laying in some oil from the old motor and it was plugged in that way?
I would say that is highly possible, but a lot of the wiring back behind/under the engine that were oily and dirty. And they weren't as dirty when I first got it all back together.
Also, the knock sensor plastic part that rotates slightly also had oil soaking it. And the plug had oil in it =/
Got it running. Bad connection to the battery that had died. Had to charge it using another vehicle for about 10 minutes and then it started right up with the jumper cables disconnected
Replaced the battery and it was doing fine.
Driving on the highway today and the car started chugging/learching as if it wasn't getting enough fuel. Checked the fuel trims and they were fine. Rpm's were not bouncing or anything. Pulled off the highway and into a car pool. Did fine until I shut it off. Now it won't start. Clicks over like a machine gun. But nothing else. Power seems there, and CLICKS over quick but won't TURN over at all. My thoughts are that the battery is not dead but I have no way to test that right now, so now I am thinking starter?
However, on the highway when it was started learching, that makes me think alternator isn't working since even with the battery being dead, shouldn't the alternator still power the car while driving?
Then I'm thinking it's not the alternator simply because the battery I don't think is dead?
Then I'm thinking, should I just somehow make it look like natural causes caused a carfire and the thing burned to the ground? IDK lol
fast clicking could be the starter solenoid has gone bad. try a few good hits with a hammer. if it all of a sudden it cranks over id change the starter, or swap the solenoid on it, the part with the wires to it. it comes off and is changeable.
It's never happened before, and the car sounded like the exhaust came disconnected for a bit, but it wasn't when I checked it. Been a weird couple days overall with this car
Well Scotty, smacked the solenoid and no luck. Replaced it with a starter from the engine I took out of the car and it does the same exact thing. It acts like it comes out and hits the flywheel and then goes back into off position and then engages again really fast. It's as if the starter gets enough power to engage but then loses all its power when it meets resistance from the flywheel and disengages.
I cleaned all the connections, tried jumping the car, cleaned off contact points to the engine, cleaned the grounds, no luck
So I'm fairly sure I'm down to either replacing the positive cable from batt, or ground from starter, or replacing the starter. Idk yet which iw the best route though =o
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |