Thread: Boosting High Compression vs Low Compression M90 Setup

Originally Posted by sseilmnop

L32 L67 blocks are hard to find. They also want stupid money for blocks with 150,000


I put in a L26 block.

Here they want $700 for a 170k mile l67, $600 for pretty much any l36, l32s are pretty much non existent, and l26s are at most $400 with less than 100k

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........

my last few engines have all been 150$ scores from burn victims with mostly intact valvecovers.

junkyards assume they are junk, and if you dont mind itchy arms for a day or two you can get a damn good shortblock for a damn good price. as long as you know what yer looking fer.

granted up here in the rust belt we have plenty of good powertrains with rotten shells, down south you have clean shells with junk powertrains.

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

my last few engines have all been 150$ scores from burn victims with mostly intact valvecovers.

junkyards assume they are junk, and if you dont mind itchy arms for a day or two you can get a damn good shortblock for a damn good price. as long as you know what yer looking fer.

granted up here in the rust belt we have plenty of good powertrains with rotten shells, down south you have clean shells with junk powertrains.

True, although, consider the transmissions in all areas. Probably a lot of great 3800 motors that got junked with a car that had a crummy 4T65e.

People have been top swapping L36 and L26 for years. They work, they are plentiful, they are Cheap, and they have low miles.

If you got the money to spend get a L67 L32 or better yet get a RWD car with a V8 stick and all the things we aren't.

I'd still avoid the L26 like someone with the clap.

No thanks.

Get an L36, all day long.

Originally Posted by blueguy

I'd still avoid the L26 like someone with the clap.

No thanks.

Get an L36, all day long.

I have L26 for 2 years now.

Do you have first hand experience or just what you heard?

l26 would be fine but realize that they are more hit and miss than the older l36. the tooling was wearing out. main galley alagnment from both ends of the block suffers greatly the newer the motor build date. its one reason all the die casting dies were reworked for sand casting...cheaper than repairing the production die casting machinery.

if ya were goin to sub 2.8 territory with a chance at spraying it id shoot for a cast rod l36....ive seen enough l26 carnage to know that i really dont wanna push one more than a nice mild DD setup.

i dunno 'bout yew...but i dont like the idea of PM rods that are designed to fracture....with a lovely chicken neck beam that'll snap if you look at it wrong....