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The knock is so bad that I don't really want to start it. It's a metal on metal sound, sounds like a bearing spun again already. It gets faster and louder as the RPM jumps up.
I stepped on it to see if the engine would handle the load... Apparently there is a break in period for the bearings...
did you just rebuild the bottom end with out a machine shop? if so you just encountered the 200 mile rebuild.
bearings have no break in time what so ever. those tolerances are set when you torque the blots down. and being the cam uses roller lifter theres also no break in time for that any more.
back in the day with flat bottom lifters you had to break in the cam and lifters, let it run for 30 minutes at 3000 rpm's give or take.
but those days are over, once a newer engine is built its go or blow. only thing that needs re seating is the rings and well the harder you drive it the better they seat.
Yeah, if you remember I rebuilt it without line honing the block against the forums advice because my dad didn't think it was necessary. And now it's coming back to bite me in the ass.
At least now I can tell him "I told ya so" like someone said in the other thread, lol.
well i hate to say it so i wont......:th_sick2:
go find a used block now, re gasket it, use your heads and lim and pulleys thats if your stuck getting a n/a engine and then you'll have to top swap it.
if you wind up with a n/a block its best to add headers with the engine install to let the engine exhale better. or pulley up to 4.0
Well since he said not to do it, and it's biting us in the ass, he is going to let me use his GP. So I'm thinking have the whole block remachined, get the heads remachined ported and polished, all new gaskets, maybe new pistons? Anything I'm missing? Like you said I should be able to use the LIM and the pulleys. Maybe have the supercharger P&P'ed at the same time?
I basically want a full rebuild with everything done perfectly.
sounds like a full shop rebuild and thats not gonna be cheap really. truth is its safer to find a used block like we all said 100 times. stock bottom ends are proven to last and take a lot of modding, even when over 100,000 miles.
so what im saying to take you old block and scrap it. only keep what you need for the new/used block.
if you do find a l76 or l32, do not take the heads off. just do the oil pan gasket, and the rear seal, and that plate. new timing chain gasket, and lim gaskets. and you just saved 2 grand of machine shop time and labor.
I thought you had to have it remachined anyways when you put a new crank/etc in? And I am planning on swapping in my cam, springs and rockers. Is that an unwise thing to do?
thats fine, reuse all your good parts in the used block. except for the crank. DO NOT OPEN THE BOTTOM END EVER AGAIN ON A USED GOOD BLOCK.
GET THE USED ENGINE, PUT YOUR CAM, ROCKERS SPRINGS, TIMING CHAIN IN IT. THATS ALL YOU NEED TO DO.
getting it fully rebuilt is just a huge waste of money when a good used running engine costs 3 to 600 bucks. toss your mods in it, and have fun with it. getting it rebuilt will not be any better then the used engine really. ( rebuilt has a better chance of failure too)
top swapped engine are a tad faster then a stock low comp engine too. so theres a mod already if your stuck with a n/a block.
Alright, I'll swap all that good stuff out. I'll try to find a good used block. Any good sources for that in MN?
Also, is there anything else I should do at all or check while I have the engine out again to make sure that everything is running properly? I do not want to do this a third time...
Oh, another thing... Can the supercharger gasket be used for the intercooler to intake manifold gasket, or is there a separate one? I used RTV this time around, I'm just want to be sure that I have gasket everywhere there should be gasket.
if you have a you pull it yard take jumper cables and a car battery, and a compression tester. pull the plugs, hook the jumper cables to the starter to make it turn the engine. for the compression test.
look for a crashed car. best chance for the engine being good.
test the compression before you pull it out, also check the oil. see if its just oil. take the front valve cover off to see how clean the rockers look, cleaner the better.
if its from a yard that pulls the engines for you those are tested as running. both yards will give a warranty too. so if the engine is crap in 30 days they will replace it for free. they wont pay for any labor, just the engine its self.
You can also check car-part.com, craigslist, etc.. Plenty of other cars that came w/ the L67's besides the GP. Might help widen the availability.
Tomtom.. that is a roll pin that holds the cap for the parking pawl. Not a vac nipple. 4T65E has no vac nips
C, I said you could "I told ya so" and now you can. As for the idle issue.. this could be so many things tune related etc. When you go to get this back together again, please know all pieces/parts in the build like the tune etc and that will give you a much better chance for success.
Alright thanks Bill
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Yeah, I think that when I do this, I'm leaning towards replacing all the vac related sensors, getting a new TB, replacing all the vac lines, and then ordering a new ZZP tune. Hopefully that fixes all the issues. I'll either update this thread or make a new one as I go.
So if my cam is scarred at all, I am going to get a new one. And I am leaning towards the XPZ from ZZP. My mod list is again as follows:
Intercooler
3.1 Pulley (would probably drop this with the new cam)
Springs (probably swap with cam)
Rockers (probably swap with cam)
Double timing chain
Headers
Catback
18" wheels
Stronger injectors (not sure of lbs)
High flow fuel pump
HAI
Some tune with stock PCM (will probably get new ZZP PCM with tune matched to mods)
Also going to swap out the TB, was leaning towards the high flow from ZZP, but after people's input from the forum I'm leaning towards a stocker from the JY.
So let me know what you think about the cam, I want something that makes max power with a good powerband while still being reliable. A nice sounding idle would be good too.
pretty sure you use the stock rockers with that cam.
pulleys, you'll want more then the 3.1 thats to small to start with. how small you can go is dictated by your tune and and the KR it will produce. your best to get a in car tune when its all done. zzpoop tunes,,,, f them.
and you left out the most expensive part you'll need to mod. THE TRANNY. it is the weak link and will blow up rather fast if its old with higher miles with over 300 hp.
The previous owner said he had the tranny rebuilt, and I haven't had any issues with it yet... And it was about 4 months of good "spirited" driving. So I assume it will be okay, although there is no guarantee.
I also would like to get a shift kit in there, it would feel much better while driving with an intermediate shift kit, and I heard they increase the tranny life due to faster more precise shifts? Are these hard to throw on, and could I do it myself?
My goal with the shift kit is to be able to really feel the shifts every time, unless I'm driving it like a grandma.
shift kit is easy to install. all you have to do is drop the pan to change the parts, search for a how to here, theres a few good ones with pics.
just because its rebuilt dont mean it cant break. hard parts start to break after you pass 300 hp input shafts, chains, and so on. its worth it to do these hard part up grades while its all apart now.
all that machine shop time money could be spent on the tranny. if you get a used block. ( like we've been telling you to do over and over)
I'm in the process of looking for a used block. Isn't an average tranny rebuild about 4k with parts and labor?