help needed imediatly!

Good Lord dude, Ive troubleshot a lot of cars in my time, but quite frankly you have a weird one.

Im not sure your head gaskets are an issue. The #2 Im not so sure warrants a head gasket change and I doubt would cause the car not to start. The stuff on your oil cap is likely from condensation mixed in with the oil and it collects on the oil cap like that. As long as the oil itself is not milky then I would think you are okay.

In response to the PCM being the issue, I can only say its possible. I say this only because on my '89 GP I had, the PCM went bad in it and it wouldnt start obviously. As much as I cannot rule it out as a possibility, I cant say definitely either because it is far from being a common occurance.

You said you unplugged the MAP. Was it the MAP or the MAF that you unplugged?

sorry haha the MAF on the TB. and i know i dont hve to worry about the heads right away but down the road after i get it running...and its going to cost me 80-100 just to get it diagnosed so i was thinking about just biting the bullet and getting a zzp 1.0? and also, i got some 104's today. what should igap them to?

well. got in there and installed the 104's and made hella sure the boots were on, then my dad got home and helped me play with the idle air controler and i will be damned but the POS started...ran like absolute sheet but ran none the less....got one from advance coming in tommorrow! so we will see if it works? (btw is it bad that thru this ordeal i have ordered so many specialty items that they know me by name and no longer require me to prepay for the part? :th_laugh-lol1:)


:th_wtf:

I'll be praying it is the IAC. Its not bad, it just means your in the middle of an engine refresh. Oh, also, the 104's should be gapped the same, probably around 0.055" to be safe.

you and me both my friend! haha and i gapped then to .055

I wish I had been able to pin point it for you without you having to buy the other stuff you did. The IAC is just not something known to go bad and thus, theres not a lot to go on as to what it can do when it fails short of a stumbling idle, fast idle, things like that. I have never ever seen one go bad and cause a no start, but thinking about it, now, in hind sight, if that sucker failed in completely closed state, I can see it happening.

its no biggie. i am just thinking of this as a major tune up.

well, it starts and runs under its own power, but it sputters ALOT and surges between 500 nand 1500 at idle, and runs hard when in drive....is it just in need of a relearn? or what?

mines the same way, it starts up fine and idles fine but you give it some gas so bogs down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by riceburner

well, it starts and runs under its own power, but it sputters ALOT and surges between 500 nand 1500 at idle, and runs hard when in drive....is it just in need of a relearn? or what?

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So you replaced the IAC motor and it at least starts up and runs now?

Just a thought, but he said he recently replaced the air filter. Did you use an oil type filter, because it could be as simple as a oil covered maf sensor. I know when I over oiled my filter my car did some pretty crazy things.

the maf is not covered...i have never had that problem with any of my cars (all K&N) but yes, i replaced the IACV and it runs and after a while at idle the sputtering stopped but it surges between 500-1500 prm when in parkonce it falls to the normal idla(not warm up). is this just a relearn? or case learn? IACV relearn? haha then i have a few other ?'s for you! haha my headlights do not work...the turn and side markers work just not the headlights or fogs. i think i may have accidentally fried something when using my jump box?...all the other (tail, stop, turn and side) all work properly just the headlights and fogs?...

The idle surges could be the PCM relearning but I would expect that to clear up literally within a few minutes. You could have a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum lines but Im not 100% certain of that but it may be worth checking all the lines just to make sure.

You shouldnt need a CASE learn, but I would expect the computer to have to relearn the IAC to a point (really its just trying to find the optimal place for it, not really relearning). Once it settles down, are you able to drive it? Maybe take it around the block or something, see if it just needs some drive time?

i was able to drive it to work today without any problems, but i did not give it a lot of idle time.

Excellent, progress!! Does it still surge when idling now?

im not sure but i will check now!

Outstanding, I'll be trying to keep an eye on this as much as I can for your report.

well....it is fighting real hard to die on me and i have to keep my foot in the pedal a bit. not to mention i had to add 4 liters to the coolant and it still was not full...and its throwing an SES....why me?!?!?

Well, this is new, and not good. 4 Liters of coolant is a LOT and I would want to know where that coolant went before you run it much more. It would be good to know what that SES light is on for as well though with it running rough, it may be a misfire code, but nonetheless it would be good to know what the code is.

Check that oil again and make sure its not milky looking. That coolant has got to be going somewhere.

the pressure on cylinder #2 is what I noticed reading this whole post. Check that cylinder again and make sure you are getting a good reading. It being in the back you may have an error on the reading. If not, that is your problem. You say you added 4 liters of coolant???? You need to make sure it is not going into the oil, the easiest way is to obviously, change the oil. I am confused as hell on this one. If the head was blown, and you were losing that much coolant into the oil, the car would be smoking like a mutherfocker. Check that #2 cylinder again, that is what I am leaning on, considering it is 20-25 lbs less than the other 5. You also need to get exactly what the error code is as well. You could also take the negative off so the PCM can reset. You will lose the code, but if the problem is still there, it will code again. Get the code first, then reset the PCM.
I had a problem with a car once where I changed every damn sensor and racked my brain for 2 weeks over it. I finally gave in and took it to the dealership. The problem was the ground wire for the computer!? They changed it and it ran like a champ for several more years until I got rid of it.(side note: 124.50= 60.00/hr laborx2 and 4.50 for the wire) Hopefully you did not piss them off at the dealership because you may have to take it to them to fix in the end.