A few pulley questions

[Freebeer187]

1. I was given a pulley puller, and to be honest I have never performed the task myself. The part looks almost exactly like this, but the bolt is not pointed (its flat/rounded)


Will this tool perform the pulling of the S/C Pulley?

2. I have been trying to get on the road to drop to the 3.4 size pulley, but from the looks of it, I wont be able to any time soon. I also do not have a scanner, so I cannot measure knock.

Anyway, I was looking into the 3.5 pulley and was considering purchasing this. Im pretty much stock except for a dhp pcm and a cone cai.

To use this pulley im assuming I will need to get a DP? I know how this car stuff works for the most part, you need to pay to play.

I would at least like to get a simple U-Bend delete.

What do you guys think? With my current setup and possibley a U-Bend Delete can I run a 3.5 Pulley?

Thank You!

[SyntheticShield]

I believe it was Street Wolf that uses a pulley puller like that and said it works fine. He would be the better voice of expertise on that as I was told to use one of the pulley pullers from the vendors, but who knows, he seems to have been successful using a puller like that.

As for the smaller pulley and what mods you need, if you dont have a down pipe with the ubend delete, I would most certainly make that one of the things I did at a bare minimum.

[Freebeer187]

I believe it was Street Wolf that uses a pulley puller like that and said it works fine. He would be the better voice of expertise on that as I was told to use one of the pulley pullers from the vendors, but who knows, he seems to have been successful using a puller like that.

As for the smaller pulley and what mods you need, if you dont have a down pipe with the ubend delete, I would most certainly make that one of the things I did at a bare minimum.

TY for the info.

I couldnt get away with just a U-Bend?

A new DP would run $220 and +/-100 to install.

U-Bend could prolly get away with about $45 and about $50 to install.

[Smokin2000gtp]

If those are your only mods then I wouldn't even plan on dropping pulley sizes. Why people think that just a downpipe will suffice idk, I still have KR even with headers, although it is winter and my tune is crap right now so take it for what it's worth.

[Freebeer187]

If those are your only mods then I wouldn't even plan on dropping pulley sizes. Why people think that just a downpipe will suffice idk, I still have KR even with headers, although it is winter and my tune is crap right now so take it for what it's worth.

What are you suggesting I go with?

[Smokin2000gtp]

I'd suggest going with more mods before dropping pulley sizes. The mods you need for a pulley drop really depends on the budget an goals. Headers are preferable especially since they have become really cheap and allow for future modding, but if can only afford to go with a downpipe/powerlog or pems combo than I'd say only only run a 3.5" pulley.

[SyntheticShield]

He has an intake and PCM which will help, the next biggest bottle neck is the Ubend. Drop down to 180* thermostat and maybe one range colder plugs and he should be okay for a 3.5".

Every car responds a bit differently, but I will say that it is a risk to do it without some way to monitor KR.

[Freebeer187]

He has an intake and PCM which will help, the next biggest bottle neck is the Ubend. Drop down to 180* thermostat and maybe one range colder plugs and he should be okay for a 3.5".

Every car responds a bit differently, but I will say that it is a risk to do it without some way to monitor KR.

Is a 180* ok to run in the winter? Ive read that it affects the cabin tempurate making it take longer for it to heat up.

[SyntheticShield]

Other than just a slightly longer time to get heat flowing, I noticed no ill effects. Now if you run a 160* then expect a check engine light and it to never warm up, but I never had any problems with the 180* but you are much further north than I and that may be a factor.

[Smokin2000gtp]

He has an intake and PCM which will help, the next biggest bottle neck is the Ubend. Drop down to 180* thermostat and maybe one range colder plugs and he should be okay for a 3.5".

Every car responds a bit differently, but I will say that it is a risk to do it without some way to monitor KR.

He'll probably still see some KR with that setup, especially since he's got a pcm which will up his timing.

[Street Wolf]

Yeah, you can easily get the pulley off with that tool. However you will not get it back on using that.


You'll need one of these to press it back on with.

[gtphayes]

and if you dont have that. it looks just like the pulley puller i rented from autozone. or could buy it from them for 42 bucks. i used it for my power steering. looks exactly like it to me.

[SyntheticShield]

What kit is that exactly Street Wolf, for putting the pulley back on.

[SyntheticShield]

He'll probably still see some KR with that setup, especially since he's got a pcm which will up his timing.

That is a good point in fact. At a minimum maybe an Aeroforce gauge would be a good investment so that he can monitor KR, though a nice scan tool would probably be much better.

[Freebeer187]

Thanks everyone for the info. I think im going to buy the U-Bend delete here soon. Im prolly not going to pulley drop any time soon, but its still good to get the info going.

[SyntheticShield]

Glad we could help out some.

[blowfishRus6]

ive seen downpipes for decently cheap used and there not hard at all to install yourself. if you can remove bolts and put them back on you wont have that hard of a time.

if your gonna spend the money on a ubend delete. i would highly urge you to wait and atleast get a downpipe. your gonna be mad at yourself when you have to go back and do a downpipe. mine as well do it right the first time even if you have to wait longer.