Thread: Spun Bearing or Chipped Pistion either way Hole in Block. FIXED PICS OF PISTON

Originally Posted by tms8582

Typically rods don't break on either motors anyway the rod bolts do. I hear ya about the GenV being a nice upgrade tho.... but sounds like he found a fair priced low miles L67 and is having a hard time finding a l32 in his price range...

I wish you were right!!!!! LMAO

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/v...4-12163521.jpg

Back side

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/v...4-12163534.jpg

What wasn't attached to the crank

http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/v...4-13192807.jpg

If you gonna break it........ BREAK THAT SHIZ... LOL

Needs a little TLC but hopefully a new heart for the GTP

Originally Posted by tms8582

I see the coil packs and engine mounting bracket is missing however...

^ Not to mention the nipple broken off the BBV, the nipple broken off the PCV tree, and probably some other busted up pieces. Scrap yard places don't care about the accessories, they just cut wires and hoses and pull the motor the easiest way they can.

Just swap over all the sensors and parts you know work and new seals/gaskets for everything you swap. New PCV would be my recommendation as well since they are only a couple bucks.

It IS a really clean motor tho, mine was dirty as **** and needed cleaning and some spray before it went into the engine bay. I'm a little OCD tho.

yeah I'm just swapping the top end of the blown one onto the new. Should I swap oil press and KR sensors and such? Also this engine didn't come with a flex plate, I have heard of people having vibration problems when swapping engine to engine without knowing there old position, is this true?

Originally Posted by tms8582

I'd take a good look at all the upper end parts off that new motor because it looks pretty good. How many miles on the blown engine? As far as the sensors go I'd use the better looking of the two imo... just make sure to save the ones you don't use just in case you need them in the future. The flex plate only goes on one way. The 8 holes look even but they aren't so it will only line up in the correct position. You should be good with your old flex as long as its in good shape. Make sure to get torque specs on everything before you start assembling and find out which of your old bolts are one time use. I use ARP bolts on my flex.... not sure if you can re-use the stock flex bolts or not...

Blown has 87k on the clock, I figured Id use some lock tite on the flex bolts but if I need to replace them I will. Engine is ready to pull minus 4 18mm engine to trans bolts. This is where I left it. http://

Originally Posted by TLSheff

I was under the impression they were forged. I know they are improved over the L67 rods but they could be Powdered Metal.

I don't have anything info that tells me how they were made at the dealership.

pm rods are sinter forged

Whats your guys opinion on ZZPs PLOG front header? Cant afford headers all the way around right now but I want to do everything I can to prevent popping a piston again.

Its better than nothing, thats for sure.

A 3in downpipe would help too, I'd do 3in downpipe first, then add the plog.

3" cat-less DP is in the mail on the way. PLOG it is, Is it very difficult to install while engine is in?

Both are easy to install.

Should have just saved up for headers.

Depends on how far he plans to go on the build. If staying for a typical 3.4 pulley with rockers a 3" DP and Plog would be fine. If you plan to go smaller, cam, intercooler and all that jazz, you will want headers.

I know you said it only goes on one way but It looks like the bolts line up no matter what the direction of the flex.

http://www.3800pro.com/forum/fwd-tra...flexplate.html

It only lines up one way....

Thank you for that. But Ive ran into another problem well mabye.. Has the damage been done? 2 intakes are like this.