Thread: Oil Leak After *Attempting* to Replace Coolant Leak

Originally Posted by dbextreme

Did you flip flop the bolts and go oil drillin????

I still believe you have to loosen up the alternator bracket for clearance to remove the valve cover, so while you are there you might as well do the elbows.

I'm leaning on that I did that, yes. There is no other logical explanation for why I have such a bad oil leak *after* attempting to do the elbow job.

I'm going to break things down later this evening and verify if I did flip flop the bolts.

If I did, I'm going to see how much damage there is to the valve cover. Do you think I can have it repaired? I've looked at replacements and they are a bit out of budget for me.

After replacing/repairing the valve cover, I'll go ahead and install the new (aluminum) elbows I purchased and try the elbow job again.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Hi..

Let me clear a few things up and help out, hopefully.

1. There is no part on this motor called a motor boot. Nothing that resembles on etc.
2. Even if you messed up the two bolts and put a hole in your valve cover, you should not be leaking that much oil. However.. here's a super simple test to check. Reach over behind the alternator and feel the valve cover.. is it broken in half? Because ..that's the only way the valve cover can leak that much. A hole in it.. won't be noticed. Tons of guys do it and never notice at all.
3. To do a valve cover, you are doing almost all the same stuff to change elbows. If elbows appeared to be too much, then a highly recommended mechanic should be your next choice.

Thanks BillBoost37 for your reply.

Well, if a hole in the valve cover isn't logically the culprit, I have no other ideas why the engine is leaking so much oil.

At this point, I'm really questioning if my Seafoam treat in the crankcase (or using it at all) had anything to do with a compromised seal, etc.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

like ive said, the only real way you can loose that much oil is from a bad pressure sensor, all you have to do is look at it to know if its bad or not.

we can talk about it for days, but you need to check it out. both problems are a visual deal, no removal of parts needed to know.

I FOUND IT!

Scott, I did as you said to see if the pressure sensor was bad. I turned the wheels all the way to the left and had my room mate examine the device with the green plug for any leakage while I started the car. He yelled out immediately after the engine was started stating that oil was shooting out like an oil rig.

I then examined it for myself while he started the engine. Within 1.5 seconds, I saw the same thing.

Thanks so much for helping me out with this.

QUESTION: Specifically, what part am I looking for via Autozone parts? I see two related parts:
1. An Oil Pressure Switch Connector
OR
2. An Oil Pressure Switch?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

Duralast/Oil Pressure Switch (PS345) | AutoZone.com you want this. 2 on your list there.

heres how to change it, take the wheel off, then reach in unplug it, then use channel lock pliers to get it off and back on. the sensor has tapered threads, so you only turn it in as deep as the thread sealant on the new sensor or you can break the filter housing, so just make it snug.

then after its in keep an eye on it. ive blown 3 of them in the last 3 years, to fix this you can install a oil pressure gauge the sender replaces the stock pos. or plug it like i did.

Awesome. Thanks Scott! I'll go by AZ later today and finish this project in the evening. I great appreciate it!