Thread: Time to order some parts...

Skip the 160, you never need to have one colder than 180.

Go with 60lb hr injectors, seems getting 100% correct injector data with the 42.5 is hard.

Just build a "cai" for like 30-40 bucks instead of paying big money for a name.

Originally Posted by mkyota1

While the engine is out I would really consider a cam instead of rockers. Not alot more money for a lot more gain.

I was going the rocker route because I have never put a cam in and have no idea what i would be doing. Most other stuff I can do, but I'm not familiar with internals...

What cam do you recommend?

Ed

Cam is really easy if the motor is out already

^ that ^

Ant it's pretty easy to install from the wheel well as well

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Go with 60lb hr injectors, seems getting 100% correct injector data with the 42.5 is hard.

LOL....what?


I would also cam it while the motor is out. Super easy when you have the motor on a stand. But, keep in mind that you'll be making lots of power with a cam and intercooler, which will be hard on the transmission.

You'll need a 99+ alternator bracket

Originally Posted by GTPpower

LOL....what?

looooooooooooooooooooollllllllllllllllllllllllllll

I guess most people don't care about having correct numbers for injectors, just like everyone that runs pos lucas injectors.

Originally Posted by getsumbaby

Yeah, from what I read the VS cam is what i'm looking for. The cam, pulley and the IC should really wake this car up and turn it into a beast! Now that 'm clear on what I need I can order some goodies

Off to get a crappy Chilton. It's better than nothing!

Search around the for sale section. You can get alot more for alot less. If it was me ide do this.

Spectra filter on tb $45
180 tstat
autolite 103-104s
mps 3.1-3.2
sd headers(there is a set on here for 200 right now)
xp cam
105# springs and modded retainers
fresh chain/tensioner
obv lim coolant elbows water pump ect while your at it if it hasnt been done.
paint :P
60lb injectors
You can probly find a ic setup on here for pretty cheap 800-1000$
There is a guy that sells fuel pumps in the for sale section for cheap(forget his name)
transgo shift kit will help keep your tranny alive alot longer befor you can get a rebuild, but even with that you are going to have serious issues pushing this much power. You can probly get all this stuff for 2000. They sell performance rebuild kits on triple edge for like 800 bucks.

So your looking at about 2800-3200

Edit: Forgot about an aeroforce and wideband if you dont have already. And you can probly find someone on here in your area to tune for a pretty good price.

Also if you do rebuild your trans a few of us have a rebuild manual to help you out. Its really not all that hard. Just alot of stuff to keep track of, but if you take your time and mark your bolts and keep everything in order on a couple tables its really not all that bad.

Originally Posted by getsumbaby

Thanks for the info.


I just bought the VS cam from OneSlowMonte. I was told I can run the stock springs with the VS cam. So that will save a little bit of $$$. I thought i made a deal with someone on the site for a IC but it was sold under me... Gasket kit, Coolant elbows and chain/ tensioner ordered. Still need to get the water pump, injectors, fuel pump, aeroforce and wideband. And need to figure out the exhaust.

I live in CA so I have to watch the exhaust so it will still pass smog (i hate CA). 3.1 is what I'm looking to get. I think it will be perfect with the VS and the IC.

Now if I can't find a good used IC kit, is it worth getting the Phenolic IC from this site? W Body store has a pretty good price on their intire kit.

Sounds like people have you on the right track so far but a few things to consider (I just did similar build and ended up sending motor to machine shop due to cam bearing wear)...

If you go with a cam check the cam bearings for wear. Just about all these motors have lower intakes go back which can leak down on cam causing bearing wear. This changes your whole build and time line. Trust me! If you go with a stage 1 cam or similar you need 105 springs or 90 at least. Don't be cheap and use stock springs. Might as well do lifters too. Push rods not a bad idea either. You may need smaller retainers with the bigger cam also... With stronger springs you will want stronger timing chain... might as well do oil pump while your in there... If you want higher rpms you will need the stiffer springs.

This stuff gets expensive real quick and plan on spending much more that you figure because you will always need a few more parts here and there. Sensors, gaskets, O-Rings, hoses, clamps, fluids etc... My thinking on my motor was to sure up the bottom end while it was out of the car.

I just did a low-miles L32 swap complete with an Intense S1X cam. The heads have a decent port job and Crow Cams 105's with all the trimmings. Before this setup, I had 1.9:1 rockers on the same heads with stock springs etc. and loved it. It was programmed to upshift at 6000 rpms and I never once had a problem. And it was a damn fast car too. 0-60 in six seconds flat and 14.20's at the track in 90 degree heat at 4500 feet elevation with zero track prep.

After the cam it's been transformed. It's definitely faster - no doubt about it. Probably an easy 13 second car now at 7000 ft elevation. It shifts at 6500 now. I've had it as high as 6700 rpm and it didn't miss a lick with the new springs. I'm keeping the shifts right at 6500 rpm because that is the maximum shift speed specified in my 4T65E manuals. That puts me at 60 MPH on the 1-2 and near 100 on the 2-3.

I used stock injectors both before and after the swap but they were running above 18 msec after the cam and 15-17 before. My stock o-ring disks were deteriorating so I swapped them for Siemens 60 pounders from ZZP. they had the best price I could find. They were seriously easy to tune in. I just took the stock IFR table and cut it to exactly 60% of original. Instantly I had single digit fuel trims and a smooth idle to boot even at the stock desired RPM.

If I knew then - what I know now...I would have gone with an even more aggressive camshaft. I chose the S1X because I judged it to be more aggressive than the ZZP VS by the published specs. This S1X cam has a strong top-end and I don't believe that I gave up any bottom end grunt or driveability in the exchange. I still get about 19 MPG average driving just like before the cam. Highway mileage seems good too. But I think my setup could easily support a stage II camshaft and it would better fit the character of the car.

You can run stock injectors down to a 3.3 but if u go lower then u need 42.5s