UPDATE
About 1200 miles now and all is well. Some things I found out while researching the rod and main bolt re-use
#1 there is a LOT of bad information out there!
#2 ARP rad and mains will fit without machining. They recommend checking the journals for roundness because the difference in clamping force. if they are still found with the ARPs you are fine.
#3 Should have gotten the factory service manual first (go back to #1)
The manual does state that the head, cam sprocket, and rocker bolts permanently stretch when tightened and should not be reused. There are NO such statements for the rod and main bolts, the manual does say to check for stretch and replace if they are.
#4 There is a LOT of bad information out there. Just because the tightening procedure has and torque and turn method does not mean the fasteners are torque to yield. It's actually a more precise way of tightening because it eliminates a lot of the friction variable in torquing (up to 80% of the turning effort is overcoming friction, and the tighter you go the higher it gets). If you look at the manual almost all fasteners on the engine are torque and turn. However, it is always a good idea to replace critical fasteners with new.
Again I would like to thank those who helped with this and i hope that some of this info is helpful to others.
The total cost of the non-rebore rebuild was about $900, 700 for parts (crank kit, rings, gaskets & seals, oil pump kit, timing chain, head bolts, timing chain dampener, etc) and $200 for machine work ( tanking and cleaning heads and block, cylinder honing, cam bearings and install)
