not sure on testing them, but the wires could be bad, cut, chafed, cracks or hit the belts, and once the insulation is broken the wire gets whats called dry wire and no longer passes current as it should.
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03-02-2013
not sure on testing them, but the wires could be bad, cut, chafed, cracks or hit the belts, and once the insulation is broken the wire gets whats called dry wire and no longer passes current as it should.
03-02-2013
A new one is only $25.99 so I think I'll replace it just for piece of mind. I'll check out the wiring first though.
03-02-2013
I was real curious, so I went out and checked out the wiring right now, the loom is all untouched and looks fine. I didn't check for continuity or anything, just a visual check.
03-02-2013
If I were you and your getting misfire code at idle and runs good otherwise I would check compression and cylinder leak down. may have a cracked head or a valve not sealing creating low compression at idle and setting p0300. While checking inspect plugs real good for burning coolant
03-02-2013
if its got the loom and it looks good, id think the wire should be ok then. its not like those wires get as much heat as the sensors in the TB.
03-02-2013
A compression check is the next step after the CPS. I'd rather not have to do a head job to this thing but I will if I have to.
03-02-2013
heres one, try a can of injector cleaner. you never know. they could be real dirty. could be the best 3 bucks spent ever. it cant hurt.
03-02-2013
I've already run a 1.5 cans of Seafoam through the gas tank (.5 bottle through a vacuum line), and 2 bottles of Techron through the gas tank as well.
03-02-2013
it was worth a shot.
03-02-2013
Yea it is, I think I'll get some more Seafoam tomorrow or something. I want to make sure everything is nice and clean. I think I will rebuild the injectors as well sometime over the next few weeks. That is one thing I like about this car. So far, everything has been really easy to get to\work on.
03-02-2013
Anyone ever heard of this method to do a CASE relearn? It says you don't need a scan tool to perform the procedure.
http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf
NOTE: If the Crankshaft VariationRelearn is not accessible through
your scan tool (some truck
applications 1998 & later), perform
the relearn in the following
manner:
1. Turn off all of the accessories.
With the Air temperature sensor and
Coolant temperature within 5 degrees
(Centigrade) of each other, start the
engine and let it idle in Park or
Neutral for two minutes.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at
part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8-
10 minutes until the engine reaches
operating temperature.
3. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6
minutes.
4. Decelerate to 45 mph without
using the brakes, and maintain 45
mph for 1 minute.
5. Perform 4 deceleration cycles,
without using the brakes, of 25
seconds each where no specific
speed is necessary. Returning to 45
mph for 15 seconds in between
deceleration cycles.
6. Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise
for 2 minutes.
7. Stop the vehicle and idle for 2
minutes with the brake applied and
the transmission in Drive (automatic
trans.) or Neutral (manual trans.)
with the clutch depressed.
03-03-2013
I have the CPS off right now and I think I might have found the problem, or at least a contributing factor. The old sensor broke into pieces when I took it off, and the part that the tone ring passes through was covered in metal shavings. I think this could cause a false reading and make the idle rough. When I got on it, the crank was really moving closer to what the CPS thought it was turning, so I don't notice the problem. I'm breaking for lunch, then I'll get back at it. Thoughts?
03-03-2013
clean that whole area up good, slap the new crank sensor in. sounds like you found a problem.
03-03-2013
New sensor is in, area is clean, and all connections are clean as well. It did make a noticeable difference in the idle and especially in the way it drives. I had the battery disconnected for about 3-4 hours while I did the job, with the key turned to on. After I hooked everything back up I took it for a test drive, about 5-7 miles, then stopped by Oreilly's and pulled codes. P0303 and P0440, did a visual check for vacuum leaks at Oreilly's, found none. Went home and drenched the motor in carb cleaner, no change in idle. I'm beginning to wonder if my intake manifold gasket is leaking internally or something of the sort. Like I said, this CPS made a huge difference, but the problem is still there. I have not gotten any SES lights yet, but I'm sure I will even enough driving. Another reason I think that I have some kind of vacuum leak somewhere is when I disconnect a vacuum line, the engine doesn't change the way it is running very much. Example, I wanted to do the redneck test for the FPR, disconnect the FPR while the engine is running, if gas comes out of the FPR, it's bad. I disconnected the FPR and the engine's idle didn't change very much, if any at all. Same with the accessory line coming off of the vacuum tree on top of the supercharger, it leads up to the firewall and down around the battery. I unplug it and there's not much change in the idle.
03-03-2013
check this link out, has a good vid as well. OBD-II Trouble Code: P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction the vid is a grand am but the tests are the same.
03-03-2013
New intake gaskets are ordered, I also checked the check valve on the brake booster, it's fine.
03-04-2013
Just got a CASE learn done, I also got new tires for it as well. CASE learn was free, since the guy had no idea how to do it and I showed him, lol. Idle seems a bit smoother, and I notice a difference in the driveability, but still has a somewhat rough idle. I'm going to change the intake and S\C gaskets just to be safe and also so I can see what the inside of the motor looks like. Do I need to drain the S\C oil to remove it? I plan to clean all the carbon I can out of it while it's off, so it won't be staying horizontal.
03-04-2013
if you take the sc off dont touch the inside of it, leave it be, that black stuff is the rotor coating, and you need it there.
if you just take the sc off you will only see inside the lim, not very telling at all. if your gonna take it off 10 more bolts and your lim is off.
the sc fluid can stay in, it shouldn't leak out while flipping it over or upright. but if it needs to be changed its easy to dump it out while its off.
03-04-2013
I just changed the S\C oil when I changed the coupler, and I plan to leave the rotors alone, just clean the carbon out of the inlet and such.. Plan is to take the LIM off as well, clean everything up, inspect what I can, replace whats needed, and button it up. I probably will change the valve cover gaskets while i'm in there too.
03-04-2013
don't forget injector O rings. they are reusable, but in your case id change them.
cut the old ones off, they have no give at all. oil the new ones, roll it on.
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