Thread: L67 "Inspection" Advice

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  1. #1 L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    I've got an L67 (with 4T65E-HD) from a junkyard, I took it out of a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix. Odometer showed just over 210K miles, the body was a decent shape, it wasn't in an accident so I'm suspecting it had engine or transmission issues that led to its residence in the junkyard. I won't be able to get it installed in my car to test it within the 30 day warranty period. So I want to tear it down a bit and get a better look at the internals. I'll take off the S/C, the heads, probably the oil pan. I'd rather not do a *full* rebuild, so what are some problem areas that I should pay special attention to here (aside from the obvious, cracked pistons, bent rods, etc)?
    Last edited by Quaraxkad; 01-27-2013 at 11:14 AM.
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  2. #2 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Perma-Banned! JK LOL Explicit_Spade's Avatar
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    Was that the best engine you could find out of a good bodied 210k mile car?

    Odds are rod bearings could be a good reason for it being in the junkyard. Check the oil for any metal shavings before you do anything else.
    Quote Originally Posted by W-Body Store
    Remember, GM engineers didn't take into account your need for speed.
    Daily Driver: 06 Grand Prix GT / 9.4:1 CR / IS3 Heads / Ported Gen V / ZZP Headers / HPT Pro / Pulleys: 4.25, 3.8, 3.5, 3.4, 3.2, 3.0, 2.9, 2.7
    Projects: 86 Monte Carlo SS / 98 Sonoma / 74 Honda CB750
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  3. #3 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    If you are tearing down the heads, then look at the pistons and the gunk in the bottom of the pan.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #4 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
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    pretty sure as soon as you take the motor/trans apart you void the warranty anyways...
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  5. #5 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Explicit_Spade View Post
    Was that the best engine you could find out of a good bodied 210k mile car?
    It wasn't the best I could find, it was the only I could find. I've been looking off and on since November of last year. There are always plenty of N/A 3800's, but this is the first L67 I've come across.

    Quote Originally Posted by Explicit_Spade View Post
    Odds are rod bearings could be a good reason for it being in the junkyard. Check the oil for any metal shavings before you do anything else.
    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    If you are tearing down the heads, then look at the pistons and the gunk in the bottom of the pan.
    I'm getting an engine stand today, and once I've got it up on that I'll definitely be checking these things. I don't have any prior experience with this engine (or GM as a whole), I'll put up some pictures if I see anything suspicious.

    Quote Originally Posted by 99PontiacGTP View Post
    pretty sure as soon as you take the motor/trans apart you void the warranty anyways...
    It's from a self-service junkyard, I had a look through their warranty terms and it doesn't specify anything about that. They won't cover it if I modify it and cause damage, but tearing it down for a closer look is alright. Also their website suggests that the warranty is 6 months, not 30 days... I can print that out and argue with them if I need to bring it back in 31 days!
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  6. #6 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    FYI- don't take the bottom end apart (leave the mains and rods alone). If you do this you will have to have a machine shop line bore and install all new hardware. These motors are very picky about the bottom ends and have been known to not last more than 100 miles if rebuilt improperly.

    If in doubt, post pics as you said. There are plenty of people here than can help ID problems.
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  7. #7 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    GTP Level Member GTP89's Avatar
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    Easiest way take oil pan off and look for shavings and see of the rods move and if they seem loose.
    Also it doesn't void the warranty as long as it still has the markings on it. Where did they mark the engine? You should try and switch it to you're old block and return it. Lol
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  8. #8 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    I've just finished pulling off the wiring harness and misc hoses and pipes. This is the first time I've really spent a moment looking it over externally and I don't see any glaring issues. The biggest thing so far is a small dent in one of the "fins" (not sure if they have a name) on the SC snout. Looks like the previous owner used a pry bar on that to rotate the engine forward.



    The only other thing is insignificant. This picture doesn't show it very well, but one of the coilpacks is super rusty, the others are perfectly clean and shiny:



    Am I right in assuming this is where the EGR is supposed to be?



    Also the shift cable is broken. Makes no difference to me, I wouldn't have been using it anyway. This I did notice at the JY, so rather than unhook it I just cut the cable.




    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    FYI- don't take the bottom end apart (leave the mains and rods alone). If you do this you will have to have a machine shop line bore and install all new hardware. These motors are very picky about the bottom ends and have been known to not last more than 100 miles if rebuilt improperly.

    If in doubt, post pics as you said. There are plenty of people here than can help ID problems.
    Thanks, I'll definitely not touch that stuff. I may have some "innards" pictures tonight or tomorrow, I'm now separating the engine from the transmission so I can put it on the stand.

    Quote Originally Posted by GTP89 View Post
    Easiest way take oil pan off and look for shavings and see of the rods move and if they seem loose.
    Also it doesn't void the warranty as long as it still has the markings on it. Where did they mark the engine? You should try and switch it to you're old block and return it. Lol
    I might be tempted to do that, problem is the old block is a 3.1 LH0! Worst case scenario I'll return it for a core refund.
    Last edited by Quaraxkad; 01-27-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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  9. #9 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    That plate on the supercharger is for the pcv valve. The egr is also in the pic off to the side.
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
    01 gt z7 turbo tep trans zzp motor
    08 g8 gt cam exhaust 11.87@118
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  10. #10 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    GTP Level Member GTP89's Avatar
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    I don't think they know the difference as long as you return it as a full block since it doesn't specify what kind of engine it is just saying if it's complete or not. Won't hurt lol

    When taking the engine apart label all bolts in their own zip loc bags trust me it helps. It's always easier to take things off then put them back on.
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  11. #11 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    I ran into a few snags hooking the stand up to the engine, so I didn't get to the oil pan (or anything else, really) tonight. I did take off the throttle body and took a peek inside the supercharger. It's got some scoring on the walls and rotors. It's just beyond my reach so I can't tell how deep it is. If it's really bad but the block turns out to be alright I can return just the supercharger, and maybe see about locating a Gen V to replace it with.



    There was one very worrisome development though... While turning the crank to remove the bolts in the drive plate I heard a pop and then a clunk, as if something snapped and fell down into the oil pan. There wasn't much resistance in turning the crank, we'll find out tomorrow what that was. I'm staying optimistic until I see what's inside.

    Quote Originally Posted by dsmuts View Post
    That plate on the supercharger is for the pcv valve. The egr is also in the pic off to the side.
    Ahh, PCV, thanks. Is that normally blocked in this application (2000 GTP)? After I went back out to the garage I did see the EGR pipes and found the valve, so I knew that wasn't it.

    Quote Originally Posted by GTP89 View Post
    I don't think they know the difference as long as you return it as a full block since it doesn't specify what kind of engine it is just saying if it's complete or not. Won't hurt lol
    Yeah, that'll work for the core refund but they mark the block so I can't return the LH0 and tell them it's the one I just bought. Unless some evil genius knows where to find those mysterious paint pens the use... Surely they can't be available at any old craft store.

    Quote Originally Posted by GTP89 View Post
    When taking the engine apart label all bolts in their own zip loc bags trust me it helps. It's always easier to take things off then put them back on.
    I like to put all nuts and bolts back where they came from after I take off a part. When that's not an option I've got tons of plastic bins and storage containers, I like to use those along with ziploc bags. Definitely makes re-assembly easier.
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  12. #12 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    It's not blocked that's how it's supposed to be.
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
    01 gt z7 turbo tep trans zzp motor
    08 g8 gt cam exhaust 11.87@118
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  13. #13 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    GTP Level Member GTP89's Avatar
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    Might be bad news man looks like some chunks got into the sc tear it apart if you see damage return that. There are plenty of l67 here in Cali sometimes even a good 10 of em to choose from lol
    hope its good though man.
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  14. #14 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    Mystery solved.






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  15. #15 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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  16. #16 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    I'd run it
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
    01 gt z7 turbo tep trans zzp motor
    08 g8 gt cam exhaust 11.87@118
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  17. #17  
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    Lmao. Saved that face to my phone.

    Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 2
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  18. #18 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    Max Cook
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    so whats the problem? Lol
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  19. #19 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    GTP Level Member GTP89's Avatar
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    Well at least now you know that most likely the tranny works fine lol
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  20. #20 Re: L67 "Inspection" Advice 
    SE Level Member Quaraxkad's Avatar
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    So. I will be returning this to the junkyard as soon as I can get a truck. I doubt it'll be worth getting it to a machine shop. Undecided on what to do with the transmission.

    Side-note I didn't mention before... This engine wasn't going back in a Grand Prix, it's for a swap into a Cutlass Supreme. I had been looking only for GP or Regal donors for all of the w-body specific parts. If I can remove them all from this block then I should have what I need, can I then broaden my "search parameters" to include the Bonneville SSEi, Impala SS, and Monte SS? That might help me locate another block in less time.
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