Thread: Using Studs such as ARP

When installing these type of studs, I guess any studs for that matter, are the studs themselves torqued in any way? Or are they just installed by hand and then the nuts torqued?

If the studs are just put in by hand, how are they kept from vibrating out or otherwise backing out? By the clamping force of the nut?

Good question, the answer is yes they would be just like the TB studs. My question is, how far do you thread them in? Do they have some kind of stop? It would be a pain in the ass to put thread locker/sealant on these, thread them in, put the head on and opps now they're too short to put a nut on.

Studs get pressed into the hub. If using the WRP studs you'll need to use truck lugs or stock open acorn style because they are so long....I have them on all 4 corners BTW.

Originally Posted by Reptile

Uhm....I "think" he's talking about head studs.

Thank you!!

LOL. Thanks Vinnie, but yeah, I was talking about head studs, main studs, header studs, those sorta things.

Just threaded as far in as they have threads, the head studs can only go in so far, cause there is a section in the middle without threads, Just use the paste type thread sealer(per James, I used the tape and had leaks) and use a hex head tool(can't remember what size is required for the ARPs) and tighten them down hand tight, when you torque the nuts it puts the clamping load on both ends of the bolt(pulls the threads on the bottom up while pushing the top threads down(in the nut), if that makes sense), so it won't vibrate loose just like a regular head bolt wont

Arp Head Studs & Cometic 4 Layer Head Gasket Need Specs - 3800Pro.com Forum

thread the studs in hand tight, they dont need to be any more than that.

i torqued the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs on mine, but the spec is something like 75 ft/lbs.

Hmmm, thats interesting. Going to 90ft-lbs. Stock specs call for just 37ft-lbs + 120*. Obviously going too little would and could be problematic, but I never thought of going beyond the stock spec, particularly that much. That would lead me to believe, then, that the torque spec as long as it meets the minimum is somewhat less crucial that is the tightening sequence?

Is there any particular advantage to torquing them that high other than holding more pressure (i.e., boost)? Is this for stock gaskets or the MLS gaskets?

i have stock felpros. i dont want to screw with those layered metal gaskets, heard a lot of stories that i dont want to have to deal with.

id like to think that i wouldnt blow a head gasket as easily, but who knows.

They way I do it, with great results.

Make sure the block is clean. The top of the deck is clean and smooth, and all the old head gasket is removed.

I suggest that the head stud holes be cleaned out well with a tap, cause all your doing is chasing the threads, and cleaning out the old GM thread sealant, your not cutting new threads.

Once that is done, you clean the holes again with a pipe brush and brake cleaner.

You then use Teflon Paste that has a very good heat range, I believe what I use is in the range of -30*F to 500*F. You want to put some on a screw driver, and apply it down in the holes of the block. You also want to apply a good amount to the studs them selfs, so thick you pretty much pack the threads full so its smooth all the way around, up and down of the lower threads with the paste.

You then hand start them into the block, and run them in all the way and pre torque them in with 10 lbs. ft. This does nothing more than make sure they are fully seated in the block. If your doing it by hand...you will never get them to bottom out.

install the head gasket...I have installed the MLS 3 layer ones dry and never had a problem. I have reused them so far 3 times with copper spray and no leaks...so do what you like. If you do install them with copper spray, give the gaskets a quick wipe down with some rubbing alcohol and hang them from a hook, and spray on several light coats of the copper spray till its evenly covered, DO NOT GET ANY RUNS when your painting them. Thats bad!

Install the head gaskets on the prepped block.

On the tops of the studs, where the head stud nuts are, I will apply some of the supplied molly lube to the threads.

I will then install my prepped heads.

I will then take the supplied ARP washers, and coat BOTH sides of them with the supplied molly lube.

I will then take the nuts for the studs, and apply the supplied molly lube to the BOTTOM of the nut that will make contact with the washer, and I also add in some to the inside threads of each nut.

Torque procedure I follow is 40, 60, 80, 90, and then check again later with a follow up 90 lbs. ft.

The pattern which you follow is

5136
7428

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 in that order when you look at the head from above.

Pretty much you start at 40lbs ft. and slowly bring the torque up so that the head is being pushed down slowly. Your final number is 90.

ARP says 70 lbs. ft for ARP Molly lube and 85 with 30 wt. motor oil, do not follow this, as this is not specific to your cars 100%.

When I will install heads...I will pull the motor so i can work around the motor fully so I do the job right the first time. You can do the work with the engine still in the car, and do a good job, but this is what I prefer to do if I am doing the work myself.

Copy, and save this for your records if you want to follow this method, I don't know how many times I have typed this up for others. LOL

Enjoy.

~F~

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

They way I do it, with great results.

Make sure the block is clean. The top of the deck is clean and smooth, and all the old head gasket is removed.

I suggest that the head stud holes be cleaned out well with a tap, cause all your doing is chasing the threads, and cleaning out the old GM thread sealant, your not cutting new threads.

Once that is done, you clean the holes again with a pipe brush and brake cleaner.

You then use Teflon Paste that has a very good heat range, I believe what I use is in the range of -30*F to 500*F. You want to put some on a screw driver, and apply it down in the holes of the block. You also want to apply a good amount to the studs them selfs, so thick you pretty much pack the threads full so its smooth all the way around, up and down of the lower threads with the paste.

You then hand start them into the block, and run them in all the way and pre torque them in with 10 lbs. ft. This does nothing more than make sure they are fully seated in the block. If your doing it by hand...you will never get them to bottom out.

install the head gasket...I have installed the MLS 3 layer ones dry and never had a problem. I have reused them so far 3 times with copper spray and no leaks...so do what you like. If you do install them with copper spray, give the gaskets a quick wipe down with some rubbing alcohol and hang them from a hook, and spray on several light coats of the copper spray till its evenly covered, DO NOT GET ANY RUNS when your painting them. Thats bad!

Install the head gaskets on the prepped block.

On the tops of the studs, where the head stud nuts are, I will apply some of the supplied molly lube to the threads.

I will then install my prepped heads.

I will then take the supplied ARP washers, and coat BOTH sides of them with the supplied molly lube.

I will then take the nuts for the studs, and apply the supplied molly lube to the BOTTOM of the nut that will make contact with the washer, and I also add in some to the inside threads of each nut.

Torque procedure I follow is 40, 60, 80, 90, and then check again later with a follow up 90 lbs. ft.

The pattern which you follow is

5136
7428

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 in that order when you look at the head from above.

Pretty much you start at 40lbs ft. and slowly bring the torque up so that the head is being pushed down slowly. Your final number is 90.

ARP says 70 lbs. ft for ARP Molly lube and 85 with 30 wt. motor oil, do not follow this, as this is not specific to your cars 100%.

When I will install heads...I will pull the motor so i can work around the motor fully so I do the job right the first time. You can do the work with the engine still in the car, and do a good job, but this is what I prefer to do if I am doing the work myself.

Copy, and save this for your records if you want to follow this method, I don't know how many times I have typed this up for others. LOL

Enjoy.

~F~

Great info!! I vote for sticky on this!!!

yeah, the studs themselves read 70 ft/lbs on the directions, but i went past that.

Farns, thanks for that great info. I'll see if I can get that info into the How To section as it is really good stuff.

Excellent. I hope to pick up a set in the classifieds tomorrow and then Im going to focus on getting the heads to a machine shop to be checked.

Bump for a good ARP head bolt guide