Thread: L67 mild mods

You can run a 3.4 with a downpipe only. But IMO safely to do it I would at least get a zzp 1.0 pcm and a 180 degree thermostat. With the zzp 1.0 pcm they send you a pcm and you just plug it in, nothing else is needed.I would never run a 160 because the car will never get warm enough to go into closed loop mode plus it can throw a CEL. Its not needed. Also you do not need a 3" exhuast. The headers will bolt to your stock catback. I would not waste the time on running true duals. All youre doing is adding weight with no gains. The stock cat back flows good enought up to 400 whp. You will be nowhere near that with the mods youre doing.

Originally Posted by t24moore

You can run a 3.4 with a downpipe only. But IMO safely to do it I would at least get a zzp 1.0 pcm and a 180 degree thermostat. With the zzp 1.0 pcm they send you a pcm and you just plug it in, nothing else is needed.I would never run a 160 because the car will never get warm enough to go into closed loop mode plus it can throw a CEL. Its not needed. Also you do not need a 3" exhuast. The headers will bolt to your stock catback. I would not waste the time on running true duals. All youre doing is adding weight with no gains. The stock cat back flows good enought up to 400 whp. You will be nowhere near that with the mods youre doing.

Not really, this is where the discrepancies lie.

Can you run a 3.4" with plugs/t-stat/canned PCM/downpipe? Sure.

Can ALL cars? Not in any reality.

Most of these cars are getting older...and can't handle what they could off the showroom floor 10+ years ago.

Infact, many people here still get knock with headers and a 3.4"...and a CUSTOM wideband tune...

Which is why I say...valvetrain mods are key...and a tune > pulley envy; I'd run a stock pulley with headers and a leaner AFR + higher timing and running a piggy AFR and stock timing or less with a 3.4".

That's the main reason behind my Safely Modding thread. It points people in the SAFE direction, not like all the vendors that just say (Let's take ZZP for example)..."BUY OUR STAGE 1 OR 2 OR 3 PACKAGES AND GO SUPER FAST WITHOUT SCANNING THE CAR".

First things first should be maintenence.

Second, a way to scan the car...ALA tuner...or aeroforce.

Third, address the exhaust issues...you want to get rid of: AT THE LEAST the crappy front manifold, downpipe, and the u-bend...which can be easily done with a cheap set of headers...which are about, if not less than the price of a downpipe now days.

Fourth, then think about a pulley system...like an MPS...try a 3.6", then a 3.4"...then if that works for you...then re-tune for it...buy a wideband...make it spot on...

Tossing crap on a car and hoping for the best isn't the best route to go about it.

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Not really, this is where the discrepancies lie.

Can you run a 3.4" with plugs/t-stat/canned PCM/downpipe? Sure.

Can ALL cars? Not in any reality.

Most of these cars are getting older...and can't handle what they could off the showroom floor 10+ years ago.

Infact, many people here still get knock with headers and a 3.4"...and a CUSTOM wideband tune...

Which is why I say...valvetrain mods are key...and a tune > pulley envy; I'd run a stock pulley with headers and a leaner AFR + higher timing and running a piggy AFR and stock timing or less with a 3.4".

That's the main reason behind my Safely Modding thread. It points people in the SAFE direction, not like all the vendors that just say (Let's take ZZP for example)..."BUY OUR STAGE 1 OR 2 OR 3 PACKAGES AND GO SUPER FAST WITHOUT SCANNING THE CAR".

First things first should be maintenence.

Second, a way to scan the car...ALA tuner...or aeroforce.

Third, address the exhaust issues...you want to get rid of: AT THE LEAST the crappy front manifold, downpipe, and the u-bend...which can be easily done with a cheap set of headers...which are about, if not less than the price of a downpipe now days.

Fourth, then think about a pulley system...like an MPS...try a 3.6", then a 3.4"...then if that works for you...then re-tune for it...buy a wideband...make it spot on...

Tossing crap on a car and hoping for the best isn't the best route to go about it.

I forget that a lot of people have motors that have upwards of 160+ miles nowadays. I swapped my motor for a newer L32 with 50k. Thats a sound order you listed there.

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Not really, this is where the discrepancies lie.

Can you run a 3.4" with plugs/t-stat/canned PCM/downpipe? Sure.

Can ALL cars? Not in any reality.

Most of these cars are getting older...and can't handle what they could off the showroom floor 10+ years ago.

Infact, many people here still get knock with headers and a 3.4"...and a CUSTOM wideband tune...

Which is why I say...valvetrain mods are key...and a tune > pulley envy; I'd run a stock pulley with headers and a leaner AFR + higher timing and running a piggy AFR and stock timing or less with a 3.4".

That's the main reason behind my Safely Modding thread. It points people in the SAFE direction, not like all the vendors that just say (Let's take ZZP for example)..."BUY OUR STAGE 1 OR 2 OR 3 PACKAGES AND GO SUPER FAST WITHOUT SCANNING THE CAR".

First things first should be maintenence.

Second, a way to scan the car...ALA tuner...or aeroforce.

Third, address the exhaust issues...you want to get rid of: AT THE LEAST the crappy front manifold, downpipe, and the u-bend...which can be easily done with a cheap set of headers...which are about, if not less than the price of a downpipe now days.

Fourth, then think about a pulley system...like an MPS...try a 3.6", then a 3.4"...then if that works for you...then re-tune for it...buy a wideband...make it spot on...

Tossing crap on a car and hoping for the best isn't the best route to go about it.

I don't remember typing this.

Maybe you should skim it again.