Thread: delta cams

Can't we just talk about pros / cons? Find out if the delta cam adds material. Or do they need special accommodations to obtain performance spec lift/duration ? Ex: longer pushrods

Specifically for the 3800 grinds?

That's a negative crazyguy.

This is GPF we don't debate fact, we say I saw this once, so it must work then argue that statement for a few weeks until it gets heated and the thread gets locked.

Cons:
you cant change the LSA more than 1 - 1.5 degrees, sometimes not at all, depending on the lobe profile.

you may end up grinding through the hardness depending on the heat treat.

High likelyhood of failure.

Pros:
Cheap

That post doesn't list a single pro or con.

I'm interested to see if they will compare to a xp/s1x.
Or if they have any experience with the limitations of our stock heads/valve train.
Or are they gonna spec a cam like a xpz

Originally Posted by thomas mcnulty

Pro, I've run two with success.
Pro, roller cams are safer to begin with and this saves me 200 plus dollars.
pro they stand behind their cams and will provide support.
pro they are a local american company.
Cons my transmission in both cars I cammed took a ****.
Cons I needed longer pushrods on one car (yeah that sucks but I got them for free)
pros, the have everything you need for your install gaskets aside.

LOL You think comp isn't an american company? Here's their address: 3406 Democrat Road Memphis, Tennessee 38118

Your pros are all biased, and based on blowing transmissions, you don't build things properly to begin with.

After some research, they don't back their cams, they will blame anything they can to get out of replacing them, such as not using new rockers and "proper length" (for their grind) pushrods.

Add up the cost of this cam, then the regrind and then push rods and you'll be well over what a good proven cam will cost, so your money arguement is invalid. Not to mention, the site doesn't mention it but after some research Delta reccomends new rocker arms with any reground cam.

What all does "Everything you need except gaskets" include?

How is conversing with me pointless? I disagree with your statements using fact and knowledge and your rebuttles are simply "I have done them, they are fine". That's like a smoker saying I didn't get cancer. It hasn't happened yet, but the odds are good that it will someday.

Making statements about how good things "can be" is going to lead a lot of new members who read threads like this into the wrong direction.

Originally Posted by thomas mcnulty

As far as transmissions go, sure I don't build transmissions.I'd I had the money for (built) transmissions I wouldn't nickel and dime cams would I?

And there it is. Nickel and Diming because you don't want to spend another $75-120 on a quality used cam, or a little more than that on a brand new cam from a company like comp with 36 years of track proven experiance.

To me that $75-120 is insurance, but hey... Some people like to take risks.

Originally Posted by thomas mcnulty

Buying a used cam is a better solution?

There's nothing wrong with used parts that are in good condition

regrinding a cam is nothing new, but there are risks and limitations associated with it. nothing is stopping any of us from doing it, but a new cam with 'proper' (i put that in quotes because it's not really true) pushrod length isnt much more than what we are speaking of here. if $200 is making or breaking your build you really shouldn't be doing it in the first place.

if i remember correctly, the XPZ uses a smaller base circle than the stock styled cams, hense why they force you into funny pushrods with the XPZ setups.