I wanted to drain my coolant and replace it how do I go about that?
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disconnect the hose from the lower radiator spout so you get everything out from the engine and radiator.My take on it.Good luck.
First, if you look at the bottom right hand side of the radiator, there is a plug, mine was green in color. If you look under the car, you can see a small hole through the rubber piece that the radiator sits on, put a bucket under that hole, and twist the plug on the radiator about 180* and let it drain out. Having the cap off helps it drain a little faster.
Once that has stopped draining, there is still fluid in the system, there is several ways to get it all out, the best way would be to pull the KR senors out of the block on the front and back, but that will make a pretty big mess but will get all the fluid out. Another, is the use a wet/dry vac. and suck it out from the themo. housing, or from the water pump. I guess is all depends on what you want to do.
I would get 3 gallons.
I wouldn't mess w/ removing the knock sensors, as the one in the back is a PITA, and they require to be torqued to a specific amount otherwise they will not read correctly.
The petcock on the radiator will most likely not move, or possibly snap so be carefull if you go this route.
I typically just yank the lower hose and let it drain. Then reattach and fill back up w/ water and start the car for a minute or 2 to circulate the leftovers. Then drain again. Once this is done you just refill w/ the correct coolant for your car (orange DEX if stock, or green if you have flushed the entire system and want to use it). All you need is a 50/50 mix IIRC. Since there will be straight water already in the block you may want to up the amount of coolant you use vs. water. Then fill the overflow w/ coolant as well to make up the slack.
I typically don't fill the rad all the way to the top of the neck and start the car w/ the cap off and let it heat up. Put your heat on full blast in the car and sit and wait for the thermostat to open. Once it opens the coolant level will drop in the rad. Just keep topping it off as it works the air out of the system. Once the coolant levels out at the cap or it wants to belch out from the rad stick the cap back on it and loosen the bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing. You should get a mix of air and coolant from here, kinda spitting it out. Once you get a steady stream of coolant from this close it back up (be gentle- it is small and made of brass, doesn't take a lot to break it). Check your temp gauge and make sure it's not overheating. Take it for adrive and get everything flowing again. You may have to bleed it again as these motors can be tricky to get all the air out of.
I'm with the guy with Ford in his name that drives a Bonneville and is on a GP site. Yeah..last I knew..that was all true.
Anyhow.. I'd also suggest against the knock sensors. However if you want everything out, those are your best way. Or you could pull the bolt by the SC idler (or in that area if NA) that is sealed. It'll pee most of the coolant out.
[QUOTE=BillBoost37;712216]I'm with the guy with Ford in his name that drives a Bonneville and is on a GP site. Yeah..last I knew..that was all true.QUOTE]
LOL, Bill. I guess I'll have to change my SN to FordBonneGPMGMan, lol... Oh, and will have to add in my T-Bird once I get paint done.
Kinda like someone I know that DD's a Regal but posts on a GP site![]()
Last edited by FordMan77; 01-11-2012 at 02:33 PM.
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