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did u gave that battery a good charge yet?...or is the motor that hard to turn over that it creates resistance when starting?..like the guys stated before, the battery sounds weak (via ur videos), but i'm wondering if the battery is good and the engine is binding a bit.
Battery is fully charged according to my multimeter. It does feel like it's binding a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea Time
from the earlier posts it seems that its not turning over by hand to easily either, that would be where id be concentrating on for now, the harness seem to be in the wrong direction to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea Time
maybe pull the plug wires and try to crank it, see it cranks any easier. still seems to be timing related to me, but we're not there to play with it.
Scotty, how would pulling the plug wires help it turn over easier?...u mean pull the plugs, then turn over?Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydoggs
What's the line that I circled?
Also it almost sounds like it's firing but at the wrong times. Is it possible you've hooked the injectors up incorrectly to the wrong connector? Looks like you've rearranged the wiring harness so that's a possibility.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...a98/Engine.png
Thats my EVAP line. The injector wires are only long enough to reach the specific cylinder they are meant for. Couldn't have mixed them up.Quote:
Originally Posted by benner
Ok, wasn't sure if you stripped the harness apart to move stuff around or not.
This is driving me nuts as well. It's probably something simple and stupid that we're all missing.
What would cause a higher than normal resistance when cranking? Is tIming the only thing?
I could be wrong in my thinking so someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Higher load springs could make it tougher.
The cam profile as well, since it's changing when valves open so more pressure may be building?
Almost sounds like the battery itself could be dieing. Ok voltage but low amperage. I hate trying to diagnose over the internet. Sucks ur all the way in canada. I'd drive an hour or two, but thats too far lol.
no i mean the wires, that way if the timing is off the spark wont be there to fight the engine from turning over, its just a thought, the fact that it doesn't turn easily seems to be a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea Time
ive worked on a lot of older cars with distributors, when you drop one in, you need to move it around till the car starts, then hit it with a timing light to time it, when you retard or advance it to much, it wont turn well, and pops and back fires till you get it in the ball park area. because its fighting its self, witch is what your engine seems to be doing when you try to start it.
it just seems odd that it don't turn over smoothly. like its binding up somewhere.
you are using the stock rocker arms right?
That's what I was originally thinking. The stronger springs with a higher lift/duration cam is causing more resistance. Seems logical. I can re test the battery and see what it says. I never tested current, just voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by benner
Stock rockers yea.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydoggs
id pop a valve cove off and see what the valves are doing
any chance you could have the rockers to tight, that would hold it back for sure, maybe back off the rocker bolts and see if it tuns easier by hand," don't start it like that" it will bend a push rod or something for sure.
and come to think of it, did you lube the crap out of everything when you installed cam and lifters? soak the lifters in oil over night? and crank it with the plugs out to build oil pressure?
just asking, don't want to piss you off with obvious questions. i'd have maybe 3 or 4 hairs left if i were you right now....
I was watching the valves while we cranked it by hand. Seemed like it was working properly. I torqued the reusable rocker bolts to the correct setting. I didn't soak the lifters in oil, but I did put grease and oil on almost everything else. I also primed the pump about 5 times before my first attention at starting it.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydoggs
^Grease?:th_nervous:
You said the plugs have fuel on them, it might be they are fuel fowled, and there is no way in hell your going to get a spark off fuel fowled plugs. Might be in your best interest to replace them with some new ones.
Turning the engine over by hand is hard with the plugs in it, plugs removed, easy cause the compression has somewhere to escape. Turning the engine over by hand with the plugs in it, you will feel some binding...this is the pressure building up, you can turn it some more, and it will go easy on you for a little bit, then get hard again, this is normal.
One other thing you can do if you don't have a compression tester, is to remove the #1 plug, and hold your finger over the hole, and crank the engine over. If you can hold your finger on there, its probably NOT in time, if you cant, then you for sure have it in time as it will try and blow your finger off with pressure.
~F~
^^^^what he said,
when you cranked it with no plugs does it spin freely and fast like you would think it should?
Im a little drunk right now but is the supercharger and alt on the same belt? could that have anything to do with it lol
Quit lying...we know you don't know what an SSM90 kit is ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky21
That motor rebuilding grease. I put it on the cam lobes, end of pushrods etc. If I can hold my finger on the spark plug hole, it's in time? I'm confused. Wouldn't the compression stroke air push your finger off?Quote:
Originally Posted by GR8racingfool
It spins a bit better, but still quite a bit of resistance. I couldn't tell you how it felt before to spin the crank pulley though. I never did it prior to this job.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydoggs