Quote Originally Posted by txslow6 View Post
If you truly want to run nitrous safely then you wil want to add these to your kit:

RPM window switch
Lean cutoff switch
Purge
Bottle warmer

You can find used kits cheap. Around here they are in the $200-$300 range for a full kit.

You can use a TB spacer to tap for the nozzle. Or if you are running an external MAF you could place the nozzle after the MAF in the air intake.
Yup, agree.

I'd buy new if it were me. That way your getting new, and not abused/neglected parts and equipment.

The new kits will come with a window switch, and a low fuel pressure shut off. Purge is needed for the wet kits, though I use one on my dry for the coolness factor. Bottle warmer, eh...only "really" needed if your bracket racing IMO. I don't have one, nor ever needed one. On a full bottle, on a warm day 900 PSI is not a problem. On a hot day I have seen as high as 1200 PSI. The minimum amount you want to have is 800 PSI in the bottle.

Other things I added were a nitrous pressure gauge in my pillar pod, and a remote bottle opener as well as a flip open "arming" switch to turn on the system. I added a small green LED light next to the gauge in the pillar so when the system was on, green means go.

I also built my own D.P.N.I. plate. (direct port nitrous injection). Its a 1" billet aluminum plate that sits under my GenV and gives a nice even healthy shot into each intake runner of the head. Before that, I used a phenolic throttle body spacer, taped that, and sprayed there.

I keep around a 60-70 horse power shot, as I use it as a inter cooler more than a horse power gain. That's just a good side effect.

~F~