Thread: 180* T-stat

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 48 of 48
  1. #41 Re: 180* T-stat 
    SS-DD Level Member IndeedSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    St Louis MO
    Posts
    1,900
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    I'm again going to recommend reading Greg Bannish (GM OEM calibration engineer and performance tuner/teacher) book Engine Management Advanced Tuning, and any other books you can get your hands on.
    04 Indy SS build #972 - Traded
    2010 Camaro SS LS3
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #42 Re: 180* T-stat 
    SS-DD Level Member IndeedSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    St Louis MO
    Posts
    1,900
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by TDCRacing View Post
    Not true.Not for us anyway. I have never ever seen any .bin file where a car stays in closed loop untill any where NEAR that tempeture.The ECT for closed loop on a stock 2000 GTP is about 50*F, and a stock 98 GTP is about 76.1*F. Even for corvette's ect...The cupple .bin files I have seen for them the Closed Loop ECT is no where near that. I can also promise you that by installing a 160 thermostat will not wash down your cylinders because of excessive fuel or colder block temps.


    I would have to agree on the mpg loss. Even though I have not seen any concreate results from myself mostly because I have not been keeping a close eye on it.....
    Stock 99 GTP is 68* before allowing open loop. I should have posted where that quote came from. I can't see it in a 3.8 bin but IIRC the knock sensor don't operate until a given temp, which I thought was real close, if not too close the 160* range.

    I believe you are very worng on the cyclinder wash running a 160* tstat, and unless you are loaded with money, I wouldn't promise anyone that running a 160 won't cause cyclinder wash. The only place I've seen anyone saying that a 160* on a daily driver car is a good idea is on Internet forums, where people are guessing. In the book I mentioned above, it was stated that most OEM systems are calibrated to 200* for best emissions and combustion. However dropping 20* allows for cooler CCtemps and will let you run a few more degrees of timing thus making more HP. It was also stated that intentially running too cold ETC was reserved for drag racing engines where emmissions and cylinder wash from raw fuel isn't a concern.

    Go over to HPTuners ( I know you are a member there, because I've see your questions) and see what the consensus is. fwiw I assume you know Greg is a member there as well.

    fwiw, I really don't care whether someone runs a 195 or 180 tstat as it won't harm their engine. I really hate to see some one, who is tight on cash, doing soemthing as from everything I've seen could potential and unknowingly damage their engine.
    04 Indy SS build #972 - Traded
    2010 Camaro SS LS3
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #43 Re: 180* T-stat 
    Bastard Reptile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    3,459
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #44 Re: 180* T-stat 
    TDCRacing
    Guest
    Well i based my opinions on the fact that i have gathered from my own tests. I have had a 160 in the car since the time that i owned it. No cylinder wash down at all. I would have to agree that it is probably not the ideal tempeture that the engine should be at. But I also know it is almost 100* outside and in city driving (thats all i do) my ect is always between 170-180. Here is a quote from eddie from hpt who also owns a gtp with a combo much like mine.....
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #45 Re: 180* T-stat 
    TDCRacing
    Guest
    Quote from eddie over at hpt....experienced tuner.....



    LOL - I ran a 160* stat for about 1 year. The ECT for closed loop on a stock 2000 GTP is about 10*C, and a stock 98 GTP is about 24.5*C. These are the only 2 files I have here at work, but I can promise you that it will not stay in closed loop OR wash down the cylinders. I had no problems with fuel trims, O2 sensors, or washed out cylinders.

    That being said, you will get a little more carbon buildup with a cooler thermostat. This is one of the reasons (along with the cooler temps of winter) that I went back to the 180* I run now.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #46 Re: 180* T-stat 
    TDCRacing
    Guest
    Im not in any way saying that a 160 is the idel t-stat to have. Matter of fact I wish i had gotten the 180...and since then have almost gone and put the 195 stock one back in.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #47 Re: 180* T-stat 
    SE Level Member GTPsex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Cedar Falls, Iowa
    Posts
    56
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    how easy is it to switch from stock to a 180* or from a 180* back to stock?
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #48 Re: 180* T-stat 
    TDCRacing
    Guest
    2 bolts (water neck) a hose clamp (for the radiator hose) and about 7 minutes of your time. 10mm socket also I belive.
    Reply With Quote  
     

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Similar Threads

  1. t-stat ?
    By stlmo_gtp in forum General Tech Discussion
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 04-29-2008, 11:30 AM
Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •