Thread: pissing coolant!!

guys my gtp is pissing coolant around the waterpump, it's pretty bad it's all over the hood,belts, hoses, and firewall and i have a bad vaccum leak. I think it's my intake gasket. anyone else have this problem? but doesn't run bad though

If you have a bad vacuum leak it will run bad. Clean the coolant off and see where it is coming from. Pissing coolant is normally water pump or coolant elbows.

but it really doesn't run that bad. you can hear it, it's pretty loud. i've cleaned it and still can't see were it's coming from it hits the belt and gets slung everywhere.

A coolant leak is almost never the intake gaskets. Reason being is the coolant passage in the heads not next to the end of the motor. The only thing by the end of the motor coolant wise to leak is the end cap under the TB.

It's likely the coolant elbow or water pump. Those are the most common leakers.

If it instantly throws coolant all over I would assume waterpump with out looking at it.

Originally Posted by 01GTP

If it instantly throws coolant all over I would assume waterpump with out looking at it.

same.

Originally Posted by 01GTP

If it instantly throws coolant all over I would assume waterpump with out looking at it.

Yup. Mine did it and am in process of changing it now, was just looking for some advice on the 2nd 1/2inch bolt on the power steering so I can remove the last bolt on the water pump :\

Yup. Mine did it and am in process of changing it now, was just looking for some advice on the 2nd 1/2inch bolt on the power steering so I can remove the last bolt on the water pump :\

Best way to go about that is just back both power streeing pump bolt's just about all the way out. You do not need to remove the pump but make sure there's only a couple threads on each bolt still threaded into the block holding the power streeing pump in place. Slide the power streeing pump all the way to the end of the bolts and from there your able to get the last of the water pump bolts out. If you want to remove the power streeing bolts out all the way that works just fine to. But I often find it a bigger pain in the ass to get them started vs just doing it the way I explaned. But that's just the way I do them.

Back on topic : I'm going to put a safe bet on it being your water pump as well. Talk your serp. belt off and see if you can feel any up and down or side to side play in the shaft of the water pump. If that's the case then bingo.. If you dont notice any play then clean all coolant up in the areas it shouldnt be. Start the car with out any belt's on it and get a good light and while the car is running start searching for your coolant leak. Just keep an eye on the car so it doesnt over heat.

It's the water pump!! thanks guy's i finally saw some coolant pouring out of the back of the wp pulley. now to change this thing!! it looks like a pain!!

Same prob here, got new water pump gotta "attempt" to put it on tomorrow, I got the haynes manual so hopefully it helps

water pump is easy peasy...don't let it intimidate you.

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

water pump is easy peasy...don't let it intimidate you.

until the t50 socket snaps off in the s/c idle pulley, any ideas how to extract?

Originally Posted by 1998DaytonaPaceCar

until the t50 socket snaps off in the s/c idle pulley, any ideas how to extract?

thnx again red devil. shouldn't the air work itself out? =P I'm lazy...

1998daytona, it was a 15mm on my car??

Originally Posted by offroadfury6

thnx again red devil. shouldn't the air work itself out? =P I'm lazy...

1998daytona, it was a 15mm on my car??

well if that's the case than gm must have taken their head out of their ass and replaced the t50 with a 15mm on the gen III's

Originally Posted by offroadfury6

thnx again red devil. shouldn't the air work itself out? =P I'm lazy...

1998daytona, it was a 15mm on my car??

Not a problem, happy to help. It might work it's self out, it might not. I'd just get it worked out and not worry about it. Should take a whole 15 mins to do so. No need to be lazy after doing the hard work?

Thanks Red Devil...

I did this today...my engine bay would be dry, then i'd go WOT, park it...steam coming from engine, pop the hood, smelll anti-freeze and my motor would be soaked so I assumed it was the waterpump. ( 91K miles )


changed the waterpump out, didn't go WOT yet but maybe 4500 RPM's? drove maybe 10 miles, still slightly smell antifreeze and my heater is still blowing cold Any ideas? I think maybe it just needs some time to adjust and keep adding coolant as needed...

Also my bearing did not have any play ( just like when my wheel bearing went out ) but after I got the old waterpump out, I spun it really really fast and can hear a nasty grinding noise =O

Thanks Red Devil...

I did this today...my engine bay would be dry, then i'd go WOT, park it...steam coming from engine, pop the hood, smelll anti-freeze and my motor would be soaked so I assumed it was the waterpump. ( 91K miles )


changed the waterpump out, didn't go WOT yet but maybe 4500 RPM's? drove maybe 10 miles, still slightly smell antifreeze and my heater is still blowing cold Any ideas? I think maybe it just needs some time to adjust and keep adding coolant as needed...

Also my bearing did not have any play ( just like when my wheel bearing went out ) but after I got the old waterpump out, I spun it really really fast and can hear a nasty grinding noise =O

Glad I could be of some help.

Your going to most likely smell some coolant for a bit. After an issue like that and then having coolant all over the place it's going to burn off hot part's in the engine bay for a good bit. It's nothing to be to worryed about.

Most likely reason you heater is still blowing cold is due to their being an air pocket some where in the system. You can go about taking care of this issue one of many way's. Best way to refill a cooling system and be about 100% postive you wont run into an issue is by doing so with this item here. http://http://www.denlorstools.com/h...fill_adap.html
That's how I do all the system's I open up and it makes it breeze.

Here is also a link to explain a good way to go about this issue your having as well.

http://http://www.ehow.com/how_7369_...s-cooling.html

You may have to do this a few times to get the air pocket worked out of the system.
Also if you look at the top of the t-stat housing you will see a small bolt in the top of it. Losing that up and crack it open, that is also a good way to get air out of the system as well.

Originally Posted by Red Devil

Glad I could be of some help.

Your going to most likely smell some coolant for a bit. After an issue like that and then having coolant all over the place it's going to burn off hot part's in the engine bay for a good bit. It's nothing to be to worryed about.

Most likely reason you heater is still blowing cold is due to their being an air pocket some where in the system. You can go about taking care of this issue one of many way's. Best way to refill a cooling system and be about 100% postive you wont run into an issue is by doing so with this item here. http://http://www.denlorstools.com/h...fill_adap.html
That's how I do all the system's I open up and it makes it breeze.

Here is also a link to explain a good way to go about this issue your having as well.

http://http://www.ehow.com/how_7369_...s-cooling.html

You may have to do this a few times to get the air pocket worked out of the system.
Also if you look at the top of the t-stat housing you will see a small bolt in the top of it. Losing that up and crack it open, that is also a good way to get air out of the system as well.

your links are broken...BTW...I'm still having issues even w/ the new water pump. see here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/new-w...hot-40808.html

got the waterpump changed out today. thanks red devil for the ps pump tip!! it was a savior!! lol leave it to gm to make a very easy to change water pump very damn difficult!!