Well I'm disappointed I didn't get it on the dyno. My friends dad called me, (his son is in Iraq), so he's doing all the work on his supercharged prelude. By the time I got over there today it was 2:30pm. He had the supercharger idler brackets completely off and the fuel system all torn down because of a leak he spotted. Dyno was at 6pm an hr away, well we got there at 7pm. I just got home, his prelude was on the dyno for 5 1/2hrs. He runs the full standalone Hondata S300 and the tune that the guy put on the car had it 144hp on a mustang dyno. Mike had to send his original map from his El Paso texas dyno session because obviously the car was putting down more than that being jackson supercharged. Well to make a long story short it ended up at 254hp / 212ftlbs of the torque once he loaded the previous tune back into the S300. Meaning it's making nearly 290 at the crank. The car had tons of heatsoak in it also and was running roughly 205 degrees. Doesn't sound like a lot of hp but the gtp couldn't catch it on the way home. Being a 5sp, weighing 3241lbs, running 9psi and nothing I could do, he kept pulling me. On a dynojet you can add about 7-10% to what a mustang dyno's reading is so really it's more like 260+ to the wheels.
Over the 5+ hrs of talking to the tuner, plus the shop owners I've come to believe they know what the fuk they're talking about. They had a 400hp mazdaspeed6, turbocharged dsm making 500hp, nissan 300z twin turbo making 555hp, a turbocharged regal gs making 420ish hp, a badass old school charger rt making 600+hp, and a mustang making 540hp. Nice shop, clean, great bunch of guys. Charged Mikes dad $300 cash for 5 1/2hrs of tuning.
They were trying to talk me into turboing the gtp, not for me though. The owner of the regal spent a lot of time talking to me about what I should do to my gtp. I told them what I wanted to do and they think I'm heading in the right direction. They said the gains from closing in your open cone on a supercharged car diminish the more you mod it, which I agree totally with. That being said they told me that I'm making way more power than having the stock air box with the intake setup I've got right now, which I totally agree with. All in all I didn't get it on the dyno because it was 1:30am and had hr drive home. The owner of the shop did say they use HP tuners all the time and they could do a custom tune for me with ease and I'd only have to buy 1 credit. They gave my friends dad such a good deal they've earned my business. We will get that long lost info that we're looking for eventually.
I'm not a mind reader, how am I supposed to know what year you were talking about. I've got a 98 so why would I care to waste my money on a stock 99 box?Originally Posted by bluegtp91
Here's a quote from easy performance.
"The reflectivity coefficients of plastics and rubbers tend to be below 0.06. This means plastics only reflect less than 6% of all the thermal radiation that strikes their surface. This means over 94% of the radiant heat is absorbed by the plastics or rubbers. Consequently, they are undesirable materials when exposed to radiant heat. Maybe not such a good idea to use pvc, abs, or stock intake tubing when trying to keep away radiant heat."
Seems odd everyone is talking up these PLASTIC oem air boxes. Not to mention their pvc/abs plastic tubing they're using to duct the air to the throttle body. It's the worst possible material to use to keep out radiant heat. I got out after my hr drive home to get gas, popped hood and my intake piping and tb coupler were luke warm, not warm, not hot, just barely warm. Seems my open cone isn't sucking in as much hot air as everyone thinks, especially with a cool 54degree night. I'll keep my setup, flow, and intake temps over a stock box anyday!
