If it comes down to that then I can't really do anything about it.
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03-21-2010
If it comes down to that then I can't really do anything about it.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
03-21-2010
Then there is no point in doing a rebuild. leaving damaged heads alone would be like putting chipped pistons back into your motor during a rebuild.
03-21-2010
I'd rather burn a little oil then have to worry about chucking a piston down the road. I have next to no money to play with so I'm only doing what I absolutely have to.
Going L67, new gaskets, oil and water pump, stock pulley, I'm done for now.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
03-28-2010
I thought I could get away with lapping my valves.....The seats and valves where bad on the exhaust side. ended up getting the heads hot tanked,all valves/seats reground. Everything cleaned up good for $213.
If you put damaged heads back on you'll have driveability problems, poor compression and economy. They are just too important also your valve seals will keep the oil out not the valves themselves.
03-28-2010
How much did your whole rebuild cost you? I'm thinking about maybe doing the same thing you did for your motor. If the funds are there I'll get the heads done. I need to start pricing stuff out.
I've been easy on the car since the chip and it's getting regular mileage and not burning oil yet so I can run it for a while I think.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
03-29-2010
$100 for used L67 pistons/rods from Morad
$583.64 for gaskets,coolant elbows,rod bolts,main/rod bearings,piston rings from ZZP
$213 for Hot tanking,valve/seat regrind and surfacing the heads locally
I still have to get supercharger oil and possibly trans fluid. I also had all the RTV,thread sealant,lapping compound and other misc stuff on hand from other repairs I have done. I originally thought I could do it under $1000 then for awhile was thinking maybe $500 was attainable,but that was impossible. This past fall I past on a complete L32 for $750ish with 70-100K miles(can't remember exact amount) that would have been a lot easier to do. But, a used motor is a big gamble and it's fun for me to do this stuff.
The mileage on this car dropped like a rock to the tune of 12-15 MPG if I was lucky before the motor puked on my ex.
03-29-2010
I was shooting for $500-$600 with a JY motor and freshen it up, though I haven't priced out anything.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
03-29-2010
I'm sure you could find a L67 cheaper, i was looking for L32's. Price on them has skyrocketed for some reason?
I will say this the little things nickel and dime you to death. These motors are very simple once you strip the accessories off of them. If you can find a low mileage long block jump on it and just swap it in. if the motor has no leaks I'd leave it alone. That could get you by form some time.
03-29-2010
I have found one L67 in the local JY, it's out of a Park Ave miles are unknown since it has a digital dash and the motor looks trashy, so I'm passing on that one. My other option is to do an L36/L26 with my current mods with a stock pulley and see if I can snag some rockers for cheap, then find someone close by with a tuner of course.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
03-29-2010
dont buy a whole motor. buy a short block. you dont need anything else.
03-29-2010
If he gets a L67 he could sell the top swap parts and pretty much have a free shortblock.
03-29-2010
That's the plan
This I might also do if they have any better looking L67's.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
04-12-2010
Just going to throw in a new piston/rod; new rings, bearings, rod bolts.
Also going to throw in an XP or S1X, haven't decided yet.
Just to get the list right for parts I need:
90# springs (LS1 right?)
modded retainers
rocker bolts
anything I'm missing?
Will also be getting a new oil pump, fuel pump rewire, water pump, new gaskets, timing chain, tensioner, DHP tune. Anything I should throw in there?
Can I reuse the stock lifters and pushrods that I have now or do I have to go with new lifters?
Originally Posted by TLSheff
04-12-2010
IMO...since your going though it...I'd get Comp Pushrods (stock length) and LS7 Lifters...also if you ever plan on doing something again...PLEASE buy head studs NOW. You don't NEED any of those things...it is just recommended since you've got it all ripped apart...IMO, again...don't skimp. As for the #90's...they are LS6 Springs/Retainers. As for the cam...I had a XP for over a year and loved it when it ran goodBut that was just my luck...that is what I would go with and I was running mine up to 6500.
04-12-2010
I forgot about head studs, I'm coming into some extra money so I'm going to get some extra stuff while I'm in the motor. If I can run the stock lifters then I will, I'm not to familiar with the rule of rollers and new cams.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
04-12-2010
Roller Rockers? You can get some 1.6's since they are gonna be a piss ton easier on the valve train...it'll make for a tad bit better MPG's and it'll also let the motor rev freer and easier. The lifters are the same in the L67 as the LS7...but...I just got LS7's because they were cheap and I got 4 left over incase something goes wrong
04-12-2010
Stock rockers, I'm not getting THAT much extra money lol.
Basically I'm throwing in the cam since the motor will be pulled out and I'm not going to do anything extra that I don't have to. If my current lifters will be fine then I'll use them and so on.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
04-12-2010
Right...they're fine...you just need springs/retainers...I just suggested it since it is all parts and very easy to do. at this point...that is why it is taking me so long...I'm not skimping on ANYTHING.
04-12-2010
If I had the extra cash I would get roller rockers, I just finally made up my mind on what I want to do for some more fun
My current lifters are fine as well?
Originally Posted by TLSheff
04-12-2010
Sure? Did they make any noise in the old motor? I'm just saying I'd spend the hundred bucks or whatever and buy new LS7 ones from Texas Speed (a big LSX vendor)
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