Thread: Which plug for a 3.5?

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  1. #61 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    No, didn't do the swap. i have though about it, but I think it would be more cost effective to just purchase a 98+ car.
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  2. #62 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    GTX Level Member killakross5o4's Avatar
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    they sell in auto trader around me with around 100 ish miles for 5k...thats LS1 TA's or Cam's
    Shortstack Intercooler, 1.9 Rockers, 3.2 pulley,180 drilled T stat,103 plugs, U bend delete with no cat, thrush resinator,3inch pace setter cat back,shift kit,ZZP Chrome tips,,ZZP stage 2 throttle body,homemade 4 inch CAI,DHP tuned PCM,SSAC headers
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  3. #63 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    I know, but I'm happy with the LT1 so I'll stick with it. Here's a picture. Mine is the red one.
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  4. #64 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    GTX Level Member killakross5o4's Avatar
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    wow they kick side ways like my bmw did!!!!
    Shortstack Intercooler, 1.9 Rockers, 3.2 pulley,180 drilled T stat,103 plugs, U bend delete with no cat, thrush resinator,3inch pace setter cat back,shift kit,ZZP Chrome tips,,ZZP stage 2 throttle body,homemade 4 inch CAI,DHP tuned PCM,SSAC headers
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  5. #65 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    Only the ones with a 6 speed! Usually it is worse.
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  6. #66 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    GTX Level Member killakross5o4's Avatar
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    my bmw was auto..well it had both auto n manual but it was auto..man that sucker would kick side ways...it was my first RWD vehicle....besides a 99 dodge ram
    Shortstack Intercooler, 1.9 Rockers, 3.2 pulley,180 drilled T stat,103 plugs, U bend delete with no cat, thrush resinator,3inch pace setter cat back,shift kit,ZZP Chrome tips,,ZZP stage 2 throttle body,homemade 4 inch CAI,DHP tuned PCM,SSAC headers
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  7. #67 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
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    T56 ftw

    many times better than the T5 and even the world class T5.
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  8. #68 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    Yup, now that I got a modded GTP that is faster it is time to start modding this one. Headers this year, and next year i will probably have a couple of options. 1. purchase friends low mile 02 SS and never drive it to keep value up, or 2. H/C/I the LT1. Haven't decided yet.
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  9. #69 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
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    go for going fast, who cares about the value of a car?

    Cars are not wise investments by any means.
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  10. #70 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    That sounds like good advice! I'll keep that in mind.
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  11. #71 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    GTX Level Member killakross5o4's Avatar
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    lol its common sense brother
    Shortstack Intercooler, 1.9 Rockers, 3.2 pulley,180 drilled T stat,103 plugs, U bend delete with no cat, thrush resinator,3inch pace setter cat back,shift kit,ZZP Chrome tips,,ZZP stage 2 throttle body,homemade 4 inch CAI,DHP tuned PCM,SSAC headers
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  12. #72 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    SE Level Member slow94formula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by killakross5o4 View Post
    lol its common sense brother
    Not necessarily. Some people like to have a corvette while others would rather have a corvair. What I meant was that I would keep that in the back of my mind to think about which choice to make. Sometimes collector cars are more fun to own because they get more looks. It can go both ways.
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  13. #73 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    resident snitch gtpinsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01GTP View Post
    Car will knock more when it is cold.
    detonation occurs more in the hot summer months... drive ur car up a hill at WOT in the summer and scan... then do the same in the winter.

    02 GTP with mods 05 GP for DD
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    The majority of the people here are potheads who want to buy good condition parts at junkyard prices.
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  14. #74 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtpinsc View Post
    detonation occurs more in the hot summer months... drive ur car up a hill at WOT in the summer and scan... then do the same in the winter.
    No...you get more dense air when cold, hence more boost. More boost = more knock prone. When it is hotter, you do have to worry about intake temps and motor temps...not so much boost wise because the air isn't very dense so you won't make as much boost. Detonation occurs when your knocking...not because it is necessarily hotter outside.
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  15. #75 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    resident snitch gtpinsc's Avatar
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    ok so from what i have learned on here and just from scrolling around on other sites... this is wrong?.... Detonation
    We've all heard of this, but what is it? Detonation, or engine knock, occurs simply when fuel pre-ignites before the piston reaches scheduled spark ignition. This means that a powerful explosion is trying to expand a cylinder chamber that is shrinking in size, attempting to reverse the direction of the piston and the engine. When detonation occurs, the internal pneumatic forces can actually exceed 10x the normal forces acting upon a properly operating high performance engine. Detonation is generally caused by excessive heat, excessive cylinder pressure, improper ignition timing, inadequate fuel octane or a combination of these. Of the previous, excessive heat is usually the culprit. As an engine is modified to generate more power, additional heat is produced. Today's pump gas will only tolerate a finite amount of heat before it pre-ignites and causes detonation. Although forced induction engines usually produce far less heat than comparable naturally aspirated high compression engines, the cylinder temperatures in intercooled engines are radically cooler yet. It is rarely boost that causes detonation, just unnecessary heat. An intercooler is such a natural solution for forced induction, that in almost every OEM application, intercooling is part of the package.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    The majority of the people here are potheads who want to buy good condition parts at junkyard prices.
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  16. #76 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    Right...but more boost with not enough flow = knocking...and that knock is what causes the heat...which in turn will, like you read...create those heat spikes and detonation. Does that make sense?
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  17. #77 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
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    i hear ya on that... but in turn when its hotter outside, air intake temps are going to increase making under hood temps rise which will increase detonation right? keep in mind he said the car is ALL stock. From what i understand the best time to scan for KR is in the summer time going up uphill at WOT because this is the time detonation is more likely to happen.

    02 GTP with mods 05 GP for DD
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    The majority of the people here are potheads who want to buy good condition parts at junkyard prices.
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  18. #78 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    The mod from over yonder TheOtherNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtpinsc View Post
    i hear ya on that... but in turn when its hotter outside, air intake temps are going to increase making under hood temps rise which will increase detonation right? keep in mind he said the car is ALL stock. From what i understand the best time to scan for KR is in the summer time going up uphill at WOT because this is the time detonation is more likely to happen.
    When you have really dense cold air coming in it will make your 3.4 seem like a 3.2 and so on. Creating really lean conditions, lean makes a lot of heat, then it knocks. IF you tune in the winter you will be rich as hell in the summer and probably not knock, but you will also not run very fast.
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  19. #79 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    GT Level Member rolyat's Avatar
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    ^^ your IAT and MAF should adjust for that right?

    Colder air generally has a lower specific heat than warmer air, and in winter the air is generally less humid. Meaning it doesn't require as much energy to warm up air that is cold, so cold air will get hot faster. Make sense? So now we have air that is about at the same temperature in winter and summer, that is, once it has been compressed by the s/c. The difference is the density of air at 0*C is 1.293 kg/m^3 and at say at 40*C it is about 1.127. So more oxygen will be pulled in with the colder air, giving a slightly more explosive burn, along with the increased boost. All this will lead to an increase in possible detonation, meaning more KR.
    So.... yeah it makes sense to have more KR when its cold
    Last edited by rolyat; 03-07-2010 at 12:10 PM.
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  20. #80 Re: Which plug for a 3.5? 
    The mod from over yonder TheOtherNick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rolyat View Post
    ^^ your IAT and MAF should adjust for that right?

    Colder air generally has a lower specific heat than warmer air, and in winter the air is generally less humid. Meaning it doesn't require as much energy to warm up air that is cold, so cold air will get hot faster. Make sense? So now we have air that is about at the same temperature in winter and summer, that is, once it has been compressed by the s/c. The difference is the density of air at 0*C is 1.293 kg/m^3 and at say at 40*C it is about 1.127. So more oxygen will be pulled in with the colder air, giving a slightly more explosive burn, along with the increased boost. All this will lead to an increase in possible detonation, meaning more KR.
    So.... yeah it makes sense to have more KR when its cold
    The IAT and maf can not adjust enough to fix the problem.
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