Thread: Engine block

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  1. #1 Engine block 
    SE Level Member slednut's Avatar
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    Well i picked up another gtp on the weekend. The block cracked on it causing the engine to cease. It has 147000kms(91000 miles) on it and is fully loaded. The heads and everything are fine. I was going to put the engine from the car i drive now in it cause the trans is going and it has over 332000 kms (206000 miles) on it. But then decided to build one for it. I want a n/a engine but am not sure what years and models have the 3.8 that will work in my car. I read the sticky in the n/a section but i am still unsure. So if i only need a short block, being block, crank, pistons, and rods, what engine years can i use. And from what car models, eg buick, bonnies. Hope that makes sense. I am only going for minor power gains, a 3.4/3.5 pulley, down pipe, intake, plugs, t-stat, ect, as it will be my daily driver.
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  2. #2 Re: Engine block 
    GT Level Member mikedinthecity's Avatar
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    series 2 blocks are popular usually 97 to 03 are series 2. regal, lesabre, park ave, grand prix bonneville riviera impala monte carlo lumina. also know the pistons, connecting rods, and cranks are different in the s/c engines. they r suppose to be stronger. of course the heads and injectors are different too but the blocks are the same.
    2000 Daytona 500 GTP. fender well intake K&N, 180 tstat, flipped dog bones, strut2strut brace, sd headers coated n wrapped, 3in dp, 3.25 pulley, pcm tune, led tails, angel eye halos w 100 watt h1s, p&p heads, p&p m90, yella terra alum roller rockers, head studs, 8mm wires, al104s, 2007 l26, 329s hd diff, alum sub frame
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  3. #3 Re: Engine block 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    Nope...the only thing different is the pistons...the GT's are a higher compression...the rods and crank are the same.

    Since your top end is still good, remove it and clean it up good...might as well port your Supercharger while it is off too. If you do plan on high compression your going to be needing a tune and no WAY your going to be able to drop to a 3.5" or 3.4" with just a DP and other small bolt ons. 3.4" on a high compression build is nearly a 3.1" on a low comp. L67. Keep the stock pulley...you don't need a lot of boost to get power with a L36. If it is your DD then swap the L36 block in, port the S/C, get a 180*, Autolite 104's, 3" Downpipe, Custom CAI/FWI, and a tune...TUNE IS A MUST.

    Just putting it out there. Hope you get it done.
    Sold WBody's: '03 Blue GTP/'98 Green GTP/'98 Silver GT/'05 GXP
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  4. #4 Re: Engine block 
    SE Level Member slednut's Avatar
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    Well thats is easier for me to keep the stock pulley. Good to know. And it will be getting a tune. I know a guy around here that will do what ever i want and work with you untill you have what you like for $300. Thats were its going when i get it done. Thanks for the info.
    Ryan
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  5. #5 Re: Engine block 
    SE Level Member slednut's Avatar
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    So i found a block. Running 98 Monte Carlo with 249000 kms on it. Whole car for $300 bucks, so if anybody needs anything let me know.. I was wondering if it was worth it to put new bearings in the bottom end or to just leave them alone. And what about gasket brands, what to get or not to get. I was planning on getting the engine gasket kit from zzperformance.
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  6. #6 Re: Engine block 
    SE Level Member burnt89's Avatar
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    new bearing are always a good idea when the engines out as for brand im not sure with 3.8L but in my mustang i used clevite bearings and you never wanna cheap out when it comes to rebuilding motor and its always a good thing to know that all that stuff is brand new heres a few links to think about

    Clevite Engine Parts MS2037P-25MM - Clevite Main Bearings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
    Clevite Engine Parts CB1238P026MM - Clevite Rod Bearings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
    and dont forget a good set of piston rings
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