Fuel Pump? Coil Pack?

**JoshMcMadMac** · 11-02-2009

The car died on me today. Friday I drove home from work, which is about 30 miles. I pulled up to check my mailbox, and the car stalled out. I tried to start it back up, but all it would do is turn over. I proceeded to push it forward so I could roll it back into the garage. I jumped into the seat to apply the brakes, and gave it a shot...it started right back up.

So, heading to work today, I made it about 15 minutes down the road and it happened again. I pulled over, waited a few minutes, and it started again. Another 5 minutes, died again. If I tried to start it back up, it would just turn over. Giving it 3-5 minutes to rest, it would turn over for a second and then start back up. It did this twice more, then it would not start anymore. It will turn over, and sputter once or twice trying to start, but no luck.

There is no check engine light, so no codes. The fuel pump resistor has been bypassed for a year, so that is not the culprit. My first suspicion is the fuel pump, but am wondering if it could be a coil pack. Any ideas or troubleshooting tips? I really need to get the car off of the side of the highway!

**PH04GTP** · 11-02-2009

Could be a multitude of things. First off, can you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to the acc. position? If the pump makes the characteristic humming noise then that's probably not your problem. If it doesn't crawl under the car and beat on the tank and try again. If it the pump turns on then it's your pump. Coil pack are a little harder to test for. Pull the wires off and look for any corrosion on the posts though I doubt this is the problem, because it sounds like the car runs properly once started. Could also be the ignition switch in the column. If you move the tilt on the column all the time getting in and out of the vehicle the contacts on the switch get worn out from the movement of the wires when the wheel is tilted back and forth. One way to test this is to try to start the vehicle in the different wheel tilt positions and that should tell you if it's bad or not. Hope that helps.

**JoshMcMadMac** · 11-02-2009

I am now wondering if it is the Crank Position Sensor. Is there a write up on swapping it out somewhere?

**PH04GTP** · 11-02-2009

Could be. I see you've got HPTuners, I belive that can scan for that to tell if it's bad. Could be a bad coolant temp. sensor too.

**BillBoost37** · 11-02-2009

Very likely it's the CKPS. The info you provided is the standard method for how it fails.

**JoshMcMadMac** · 11-02-2009

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Very likely it's the CKPS. The info you provided is the standard method for how it fails.

I am reading up on it...my tachometer still showed the proper RPMs...is it possible for the CPS to be the culprit, yet the tach still work?

**Bio248** · 11-02-2009

yes, its possible. that doesnt sound like a fuel pump or a coil pack going out either.

**JoshMcMadMac** · 11-02-2009

Originally Posted by Bio248

yes, its possible. that doesnt sound like a fuel pump or a coil pack going out either.

So it is possible for the crank position sensor to fail, yet the tachometer remains accurate while I am coasting to a stop?

What about the ICM?

**Bio248** · 11-02-2009

anything dealing with the electrical system would first show up as misfires, so i really dont think any of that is your problem.

and yes, it is possible for the CPS to go out without you losing the tach.

**FoSHO99** · 11-02-2009

Doesn't sound like a coil pack, could be a loose connection if anything. When the car dies, there is no rough idle or anything, just shuts off?

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