Thread: New exhaust work: now my performance SUCKS!!!!

follow the egr up from the exhaust manifold that is more towards the driver and it will end up under the Throttle body.........

Billy. To change a crank sensor you untension the two belts and put the car in the air, pull off the passenger tire and splash shield. Remove crank bolt and using a balancer puller remove balancer. Then the plastic shield is popped off (behind HB) and two 13mm bolts hold the sensor on. The sensor costs ~$30 at any parts store. The job itself takes any competent mechanic under 20 minutes.

The cam sensor is one 10mm bolt, wiggle old out and new in. Probably takes 20 minutes because it's all braille.

The ICM is swapped out with a 5.5mm socket and a 7mm socket. 10 minutes if you drink a beer while doing it.

Most of us have extra ignition module wiring hanging around. Want me to ship you one? $10.. that covers $5 for priority shipping and $5 for the time to drop it off

Now..if you actually think half of the stuff they told you needs to be done, smack yourself in the forehead so hard that you wake up next week. The exhaust shop was taking you badly. This place is even worse and I don't see mention of vasoline. If you get any of this work done by them, then you better have gotten lube otherwise your rear will hurt for months to come.

You are part of a forum that might have members close to you. Ask around, find out who can help you. Members help members all the time. And it doesn't cost thousands of dollars.

Phew..those prices etc really had me riled up.

PS..since they were f'n with the exhaust. Check the O2 sensor in the rear exhaust manifold. If it's touching a spark plug wire, move it so it won't. Then start the car, if it's fixed I'll accept the title of .

Then I'll tell ya where to send the check.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Billy. To change a crank sensor you untension the two belts and put the car in the air, pull off the passenger tire and splash shield. Remove crank bolt and using a balancer puller remove balancer. Then the plastic shield is popped off (behind HB) and two 13mm bolts hold the sensor on. The sensor costs ~$30 at any parts store. The job itself takes any competent mechanic under 20 minutes.

The cam sensor is one 10mm bolt, wiggle old out and new in. Probably takes 20 minutes because it's all braille.

The ICM is swapped out with a 5.5mm socket and a 7mm socket. 10 minutes if you drink a beer while doing it.

Most of us have extra ignition module wiring hanging around. Want me to ship you one? $10.. that covers $5 for priority shipping and $5 for the time to drop it off

Now..if you actually think half of the stuff they told you needs to be done, smack yourself in the forehead so hard that you wake up next week. The exhaust shop was taking you badly. This place is even worse and I don't see mention of vasoline. If you get any of this work done by them, then you better have gotten lube otherwise your rear will hurt for months to come.

You are part of a forum that might have members close to you. Ask around, find out who can help you. Members help members all the time. And it doesn't cost thousands of dollars.

Phew..those prices etc really had me riled up.

Cool, and I REALLY appreciate the help, but where do I get the ICM, (still can't find one) and what about the tuning (the suppliers I found that did carry but out of stock had to have them reprogramed...supposedly)?!

BTW, Yer right, there was no vaseline for miles around! see how pissed I was getting! I know I have been inactive the last 15 years when it comes to auto mechanics for some time but I'm not a F***ING idiot!!!

PS. When did they start programing modules on site? These units used to be plug and play from what I remember! But then again, that was 15 years ago.

Did the Vasoline Bandits tell you programming was required? Tell those jokers that they are on crack.

First off..your ICM doesn't sound like it's bad. Let's diagnose this here on the forum and then we'll only make you replace what is needed. That way you can have money to buy the beer at the next meet. .

The only programming needed is the pcm and it doens't need any programming today.

Starting off right, we need to know what codes the car is currently giving you. Remind us of the symptoms about how it's driving and if you checked that O2 sensor yet. (If not..this is a good time to run out, do it and lie to us that you already checked it before)

yes.........listen to mr. boost........we can help you through it. even if all of that you have bad, we can get you through it much cheaper......