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I have two questions for ya. How and why?
Ohhhhh yeah. Nice thinking Ron. Any progress on that?
Hey, now looking at your picture more, is that just a bushing in the plate or is that a roller bearing there?
Roller bearing. Looks like to reaasemble, press the bearing to the shaft, then press the shaft/rotor into the plate. I can make a press for it no problem too. If it works out, I may be able to offer a recoating/rebuilding service for the rotor packs.
I looked at the pricing of who's offering it, and it's outrageous. If I can set-up a core program, I may be able to make it fairly reasonable. there are also low drag bearings available for this case, so there could be some performance benefits.
that you are.... maybe its the chitown water![]()
Well, I think it's something that needs to be done. Cores are getting harder to find mint. Be nice to be able to find some extra performance in there somehow also.
gun drill each lobe of the rotors, balance em, slot em for teflon strips, coat the gears...low drag bearings...where will it stop! madness i say madness lol
Ron I used to rebuild them at the machine shop I worked at so if you have any questions let me know. The bearings are the same as the small nose bearing and the seals are sometimes hard to find. We had them custom made and looked exactly like the OE seals but there are quite a few places out there selling them if you dig around. They has some crap setup for pressing them apart so where is what I did to make life easy...... I took a bad core housing and sawed it in half- right where the rotors end inside the housing and then I welded on two 1" blocks to raise it up . Drop in the rotors and use a pin slightly smaller than the rotor shaft and press away! Makes taking them apart a snap and is much safer/faster that messing around with a puller or blocks and a press as I have had them kick out under load before and its not fun!
^With Daves advice, I made a jig as well to press the gears off.
There isn't much to the rotor assembly, and I too, and working on offering a rebuild service for them as well. This service should not cost no $350.00 to $400.00 as some are charging, but are they really doing any?
My rebuild will cover the rotors being recoated, bearings, and seals as well. The seals are a goofy sized one I have heard too, but I have a place locally that I can get them through in a large quantity no problem.
The rotors are not Teflon coated, never have been.
Once everything is reassembled, they will be rebalanced as well, then ready to rock and roll.
To answer the question above, yes, in a normal good set of rotors there is a small amount of play on the rotors from side to side, and once installed in the case, end to end. As they heat up, this gets smaller, but does not rub.
~F~
You singing a sweet melody there Ron. I am all ears and am eager to see what you come up with.
Let me ask this, as Im just curious and sorta thinking out loud. Would it be better or easier or some other advantage to coat the inside of the housing rather than the rotors themselves? Isnt the purpose of the coating to tighten up clearances?
Maybe, but its the kind of madness I like.
Most if not all the great minds and inventors were considered mad at some point![]()
But they died before anyone would deem them a genus, so take above with a grain of salt![]()
lol your awake still? lol
Ron, now that I see what you are doing I wished I kept my 20K mile stripped rotors. Everyone said that having the coating stripped would cause you to loose boost so my were changed out for a set from Ed. There was absolutely no difference in boost level. Had that possibility occured to me, I would have kept my stock rotors.![]()
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