I am REALLY starting to dislike you Farnsworth. You come in here and talk about exciting things like a dual rectifier set up and you stop. Dude, you are seriously driving me nuts here.
Oh, the chrome stuff looks good too.
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I am REALLY starting to dislike you Farnsworth. You come in here and talk about exciting things like a dual rectifier set up and you stop. Dude, you are seriously driving me nuts here.
Oh, the chrome stuff looks good too.
LOL I love you to man.
I said enough right there with the dual rectifier set up...if one was smart enough, they can do it too. Wont be long before its done...and then the real vendors can copy the idea and make more money off it.
Doing the real time R&D on it now, not being like everyone else, and doing something new, releasing it, and having the customers test it out and hope it works.
Long term...yes, it should be a worth while mod to do.
~F~
Found some pictures of my first alternator I did up, and when it cam back from the shop polished and plated:
And a few inside shots of it once it was done and reassembled:
~F~
Ive seen dual and external rectifier set ups before, just never one for the 3800, but I'll also leave it there and wait and see what you come up with. Is it possible to up the voltage output with this type of set up any like adding the ZZP voltage booster? I like having a solid 15.0 - 15.2 voltage output. Lights are definitely a little brighter.
I am bummed out now, I realized I didnt give the Chromer my pulley. Second I never knew about reg plating and hard plating. All I do know is chroming is breaking my bank. I wanted my snout and SC housing chromed but the guy quoted me 1200 bucks. I said heck no. I can buy a new port and polished for that price off PFYC.
Not for sure, thats what the testing is going for.
IMO (In MY opinion) the voltage boosters are for those with a stock alternator needing a little bit more. I asked around, and they do really work.
If you want more...real time, with no clip on's as I call them, then change the coil windings inside the alternator.
With the piggy back dual rectifier set up...many use it for a back up and a better way of heat distribution from them, as the second one is exposed out side the case. many will also remove the internal one all together, and remote mount them outside the case, complete with a 12V fan running on them. If thats the case, either their design of alternator is a bad one, or they need to modify the internal fan with in to get more air flow across it. (IMO)
The one I'm working on is a piggy back dual set up, so to say.
~F~
Chrome plating isn't cheap, and many places who do it are lucky to stay in business with the EPA breathing down their backs.
Whats he charging you do do the case for your alternator in chrome?
The guy I use charges me $80.00 to do the polishing of the aluminum case, and chrome plating of the misc. parts. Thats COST, not marked up retail. He hates to do the cases, because of all the little tight areas they need to hit. Cant remember how much time they have invested in a alternator case, but not nearly as much as a M90.
Done a few snouts only for quite a few people who had painted or custom made engine covers they like to leave on at shows. But the ugly snout was too much for them. Polished snouts:
One was done for John Oliver, if you ask him, I'm sure he could show you a installed picture. I don't know if hes on here yet or not, but hes still on the "other forum" I think. His engine bay is amazing. His car got my vote at Branson.
~F~
I was charged 650. He is doing my alternator, the large bracket the coil packs sit on and bolts to the pass side dogbone, the same bracket that sits on the drivers side that the dogbone bolts to, Both brackets that the front of the dogbones mount to(including sanding down the raised rivet looking welds), Bolts and nuts for all the above including the nuts on my strut towers, Bracket that holds the speed cable (I believe), and another bracket that holds the throttle cable behind the SC, and finally the big black bar that braces the alternator.
Man, that engine bay is going to shine for sure. YOU MUST POST PICTURES!!!
Oh, and this:Those are on the upper motor mount brackets. The little bumps, are what holds the two folded half's together. They are folded, with the rubber mount inserted in it, and to keep it together, its more or less pop riveted together.(including sanding down the raised rivet looking welds)
Sanding/grinding off the tops looks hella good, and is a nice attention to detail, but you have to keep the motor mount together, and from wanting to separate, so hopefully he had the sides of the motor mount seam welded. Thats a must. If you remove the head...the mount can and probably will come apart on you. Just a heads up.
Thats how I modify them, when I remove the nubs.
~F~
ive got a dual rectifier sitting in my basement right now...wait different kind.
jason i need to send my stuff to you this summer.
^Location: Russia ? WOW!
This is a old thread that got brought back up.
Still doing alternators, polishing the case, getting FREE hard chrome plating of the bolts, pulley, and pulley nut, cant go wrong with $130.00 before shipping.
Working on making affordable high out put alternators too as another side project. I cannot remember the details exactly, but the only difference between a high out put one vs. a stock one is more windings inside.
~F~
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